Teak swim platform

[nipper]

Nope. I am a freakin' idiot when it comes to stuff like that.

[tsubaki]

nipper you did REAL GOOD!
The brackets cost more than that!!

[C YENSEN]

Originally Posted by nipper

Nope. I am a freakin' idiot when it comes to stuff like that.

COME ON MAN.....go to the "How To" section and read how to do it. It is not that hard....or at the bottom of the page where you type your response click on manage attachments then just select the photos from your machine....

[nipper]

No pics yet, but the teak swim platform did arrive. It was in 3 pieces when it arrived. 2 pieces mount on either side of the outdrive, and the third piece bridges the gap between those 2 over the outdrive. I cannot believe the deal I got on this. This is very high quality thick teak--probably 2" thick or better. It is all in good shape--just needs to be cleaned thoroughly, then teak brightener applied to get it all nice and pale.

I have used Sikkens Cetol on my teak in the past with good results. It does, however, have that slightly orange cast to it that I do not find to be the best look. I am curious as to what others may have used on their teak work--both to clean/brighten and finish. I am not opposed to using teak oil even though you have to keep oiling it often to keep it looking good. I can get a couple seasons out of the Cetol treatment without doing anything to it, and then just lightly sand the whole surface and any nicks/scratches, put on a couple more coats and I am good to go.

[macojoe]

I use to just use oil when I had it, But your right it is a pain and as you know I have no teak anymore except the cuddy door.

Lumber did all his teak and it great give him a yell!!

[Fitz]

Nipper:

Sikkens Light has no orange cast. I highly recommend it, in matte finish with 3 coats. That's what I have on all of my teak except the hatch covers and cleat bases. Because those pieces are horizontal and take a lot of abrasion and direct sun, I prefer to stain and oil them once a season.

I'm now going on my fifth year since redoing all of the teak, and I've only had to re-finish one swim platform because the Sikkens got deeply scraped with sand. The Sikkens-finished wood still looks as good as when I first refinished it. I should add, however, that I store my boat indoors on a rack when not in use, so my wood has never taken a lot of weather beating. I'm sure I would have had to refinish it by now if I routinely left it outside without a cover.

Here's a tip: after cleaning and sanding the teak (any decent teak cleaner and sufficient elbow grease will do the job), use a good, oil-based teak stain - "natural" color - before applying the Sikkens. It gives it an extra-rich look. You can see some photos of my boat in the gallery at this link:

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/album06.

Whatever you decide to do, good luck, and show us some pics. I know my thinking is completely opposite to that of MacoJoe and some others on this forum, whose opinions I respect, but I personally love teak. The abundance of beautiful wood on this boat was one of the biggest incentives that led me to buy and restore it.

Fitz

[Skools Out]

just post a copy of the link on ebay so we can see those pics

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Nipper:

Sikkens Light has no orange cast. I highly recommend it, in matte finish with 3 coats. That's what I have on all of my teak except the hatch covers and cleat bases. Because those pieces are horizontal and take a lot of abrasion and direct sun, I prefer to stain and oil them once a season.

I'm now going on my fifth year since redoing all of the teak, and I've only had to re-finish one swim platform because the Sikkens got deeply scraped with sand. The Sikkens-finished wood still looks as good as when I first refinished it. I should add, however, that I store my boat indoors on a rack when not in use, so my wood has never taken a lot of weather beating. I'm sure I would have had to refinish it by now if I routinely left it outside without a cover.

Here's a tip: after cleaning and sanding the teak (any decent teak cleaner and sufficient elbow grease will do the job), use a good, oil-based teak stain - "natural" color - before applying the Sikkens. It gives it an extra-rich look. You can see some photos of my boat in the gallery at this link:

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/album06.

Whatever you decide to do, good luck, and show us some pics. I know my thinking is completely opposite to that of MacoJoe and some others on this forum, whose opinions I respect, but I personally love teak. The abundance of beautiful wood on this boat was one of the biggest incentives that led me to buy and restore it.

Fitz

Fitz...glad to see ya show up every now and then...

I have always admired your boat from the 1st time I saw your gallery back in '03 when I started...the cabinet behind the capt's chair and the splash-board across the front of the splashwell...all of it's BEAUTIFUL!!

Although I went the Starboard route w/mine (Tupperware some call it LOL), I still appreciate the look of well kept teak and the work that goes into maintaining it...here's to ya!!

[nipper]

Thanks for the advice Fitz. I had never heard of the Sikkens light. Even though I have a quart of the regular (matte finish), and the Sikkens Cetol is pretty expensive, I think I will invest in a quart of the light so as to avoid that orangish cast.