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Before you go cutting with a sawzall, I would get a GOOD 1/4" die grinder and a carbide bit and go in and relieve the housing around the broken bolts. You should be able to use a 2" long cutting bit and go in there and remove some of the aluminum and relieve some of the pressure locking those bolts in there. It looks like your going to have to replace the adapter anyways, so at this point why not just cut her up and make less work for yourself.
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 
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#3
11-13-2008, 01:20 PM
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the shanks of the bolts are sticking in the mid plate.
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#4
11-13-2008, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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#5
11-13-2008, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
 They have 4" long shanks which lets me get real close to the block...  I think I'll try to grind right through the bolts and leave about 1/2" to grab onto when I remove the stubs from the block. And yeah, the adapter is going to be pretty chewed up by the time I'm done and I will need to replace it. At this point I'd go the sawzall route if I was sure that I wasn't going to cause damage to other parts. The controlled demolition with the bur seems like a safer choice. For those of you tuning in late, three of six long bolts that hold the powerhead on are sheared at the head. The problem is about 6 inches of the shank is frozen in the adapter plate by corrosion, pinning the block to it.
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#6
11-14-2008, 08:46 AM
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not to throw a wrench in but have you checked for a new adapter plate yet? i need one for my 92 Johnson 225 and no longer avail. plus the cost new was like $600+ so it's not worth it.
__________________
 1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's
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#7
11-15-2008, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
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#8
11-16-2008, 12:58 AM
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Success! I used the burs to grind of the bolts closer than I could get with the drill. Finally, a little daylight...
 The powerhead was still stuck and with no place to pry I came up with a jackscrew jury rig using a 1/4" extension and one of the powerhead bolts. Backing out the bolt forced the powerhead up...  Old hole below, new hole above. Really needed to get this close...  Free at last, free at last...  Bolt was literally cemented into the hole...  Hopefully the worst is over. Now to find a replacement adapter. As a last resort I think it might be possible to salvage this one. I'm trying to decide if I want to make this a winter project and pull the rest of the motor off and do paint and whatnot. Thanks everybody for the help and advice. It is appreciated!
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#9
11-16-2008, 09:26 AM
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Not mine . . . but here's a parts motor.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/920501895.html Yamaha VMax 175 (Plymouth) Reply to: [email protected] [?] Date: 2008-11-15, 3:43PM EST 1997 Parting out whole motor Lower unit (gear case) Stainless steel prop Power trim Cowling CDI.. Mid section...everything let me know what you need
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#10
11-16-2008, 04:31 PM
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thanks for asking but no i gave up i do still have the motor but i just bought another motor. kept the power head as a spare. good luck with yours and glad it's apart but the hard part is still to come getting off that adapter plate will be even harder.
__________________
1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's
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