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Unread 10-20-2008, 12:39 PM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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I like your support arms shown however I would modify it to a solid support in other words allow no flex in either direction. Your current configuration is a one directional support troubles with that kind of flex it will generate cracks.
Now from an engineering perspective one can argue this flex is critical however I will argue the fiberglass flexes enough.
Just my two cents
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Unread 10-20-2008, 12:48 PM
cterrebonne cterrebonne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nymack66 View Post
I like your support arms shown however I would modify it to a solid support in other words allow no flex in either direction. Your current configuration is a one directional support troubles with that kind of flex it will generate cracks.
Now from an engineering perspective one can argue this flex is critical however I will argue the fiberglass flexes enough.
Just my two cents
that is the plan, the turnbuckles were temporary. the wood in the transom is not rotted so what i am going to do is glass a piece of 3/4 ply to the inside of the transom and then run a 2x4 glassed in across the top inside and then i will put two transom knees out of 3/4 ply from the transom to the stringers. that should solve my problems, what do you think?
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Unread 10-20-2008, 04:04 PM
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THEFERMANATOR THEFERMANATOR is offline
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The factory SEA-DRIVE boats had knee supports made out of 2 pieces of 3/4" PLY. One piece came off the top of the stringer, and the other one went down beside the stringer and was glassed to the hull bottom.
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Unread 10-20-2008, 04:54 PM
cterrebonne cterrebonne is offline
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The factory SEA-DRIVE boats had knee supports made out of 2 pieces of 3/4" PLY. One piece came off the top of the stringer, and the other one went down beside the stringer and was glassed to the hull bottom.
thats a good idea, i bet that would beef it up big time. especially thickening the transom by an 3/4 inch in addition to the knee's.
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Unread 10-20-2008, 06:20 PM
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My 2 cents worth:

It would probably be less work and less weight if you took a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" thick steel plate and mounted it on the transom using the mounting bolts to secure the plate to the transom which would also add more strength than the glassed plywood.

The plate would need to cover as much of the transom as possible to provide the most strength to the entire transom. If you really went all out you could flange the plate to match the sides of the boat and secure to the sides which would provide as much strength as possible, but that might be going a little overboard and I don't know how much interference you have mounted on the inside of the transom.
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