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#1
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I like your support arms shown however I would modify it to a solid support in other words allow no flex in either direction. Your current configuration is a one directional support troubles with that kind of flex it will generate cracks.
Now from an engineering perspective one can argue this flex is critical however I will argue the fiberglass flexes enough. Just my two cents |
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#2
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Quote:
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#3
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The factory SEA-DRIVE boats had knee supports made out of 2 pieces of 3/4" PLY. One piece came off the top of the stringer, and the other one went down beside the stringer and was glassed to the hull bottom.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#4
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thats a good idea, i bet that would beef it up big time. especially thickening the transom by an 3/4 inch in addition to the knee's.
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#5
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My 2 cents worth:
It would probably be less work and less weight if you took a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" thick steel plate and mounted it on the transom using the mounting bolts to secure the plate to the transom which would also add more strength than the glassed plywood. The plate would need to cover as much of the transom as possible to provide the most strength to the entire transom. If you really went all out you could flange the plate to match the sides of the boat and secure to the sides which would provide as much strength as possible, but that might be going a little overboard and I don't know how much interference you have mounted on the inside of the transom.
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Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson
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