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#1
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All right where is Stinky now?
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Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW |
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#2
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DAYUM WILLY!!!
You sir are my hero!!!! ![]() Do you "couple" those barred feathers together yourself? I know thats not the right term, but the ones that are joined together...opposing colors... Absolutely awesome work brother....Id love to come hang with you and learn some stuff!!!!!
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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#3
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you splice in feather sections from full length feathers, cut the feather bases at a slight angle / put them in a fletching holder like you do when you mount them on your shaft, I use a Bitzenberger for these as they are a better holding jig and put a drop of glue on your finger tip and run it down the base, let it dry a few minutes and then run another bead like you do when you mount it on the shaft.
It is a pain in the arse, I used to do them with a friend that loved doing them, I just like his bourbon! I prefer a simple natural barred feather and a simple crest with a bright nock for my arrows. Cant tell you how many hours went into those arrows along with how much bourbon.
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Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW |
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#4
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ph I forgot, after you mount the full length inlayed arrow then you use your burner to shape the feather to your desired shape. Just do it outside or you will be divorced come morning. It stinks to high hell
__________________
Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW |
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#5
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Sounds cool....Since you posted all those I got excited and while I was shooting my compound I pulled out my recurve yesterday and fooled with it abit. Willy, it has a window but no rest at all....just some felt there. What kind should I get? Just a stick on flipper style or leave it alone?
I shot a couple carbons through it just fooling around cause I dont have any wooden arrows right now. I guess I could just shoot it like that but the arrows are fish tailing something horrible...I guess due to the stiffness of the blazer vanes on the carbon arrows hitting the riser shelf? Will feathers on some wooden shafts be more forgiving and fly better? Also do you traditional guys worry with spine on recurve arrows and all that stuff or just get some arrows for it? Its a pretty nice old laminated Pearson Recurve @55 lbs. Ill try and get some pics of. Its been years since I shot it, but still shot about 6" groups at 20 yards. I was kinda proud of that.... ![]() Oh and while I'm at it I dont think the string is the correct length. Is there a formula for figuring string length on a traditional bow? Places to order them online you would recommend?
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? Last edited by Stinky_Hooker; 10-21-2008 at 07:51 AM. |
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#6
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lot all at once but here it goes
you cannot shoot vanes out of a curve or longbow your bow should be braced at approx 7 1/2 inches, measured from the deepest part of the pistol grip to the string, maybe a little more, no less if the nock of your arrow snaps to hard on the string it will stay on it too long after it should have been released and cause all kinds of arrow flight problems the rest should be off the shelf of your bow, you do not need or want a elevated rest type thing, more problem than they are worth, plus you have to shoot the bow straight up and down which does not work real well with instinctive shooting. buy a seal skin or bearhair or leather matierial and cut to shape to covedr the major portion of the rest. then before you set it on lay an arrow on the string and see where it goes across the rest, mark it and then take a thin piece of wood, or something similar and cut it to fit under the material you are using for a rest and that will be your contact point, it should be no wider than an 1/8th of an inch at most and lay under the rest. you really dont need one for the side of the rest but can do that also if you want. you can shoot carbon if you want but it will need feathers same for aluminum spine is more critical with traditional equipment, on a curve figue 5 - 10 lbs more than the weight of the bow at your draw length. being closer to center shot they will even let you go higher with spine weight if you wish further away from being center shot the more critical the spine weight brace height and nocking point is how you really tune a bow you twist the string to shorten the brace height then shoot a while to stretch the string back out to where it will settle. like i said most curves brace at between 7.5 to 8 inches When you take a deer with one you will know why archery used to be called the sport of Kings
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Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW |
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#7
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Awesome info Willy...thanks man!!
I been wanting to do some carbons with fethers anyways so I think Ill look into going carbon. Although I like the look of wood. If I go wood, what type wood would you reccomend?
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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