Here we go!

Keep posting pics and ideas, I think I may be the next one to have a go at it. Keeping both skins uncut sounds like what I would want to do. Good Luck.

[bigshrimpin]

Here's my advice . . . Slap an aluminum plate on that transom and go fishing for this season (maybe next year too). Fix it this winter or next. Don't even seal up the wood . . . you want it to get wet so it'll rot and be easier to yank out later on. It's plenty strong enough to hold that motor!!!

[Blue_Runner]

I'm not a glass guy and I don't play one on the internet. But I have seen the rear skin job first hand though on my last V20. IMO If done right it will be just as strong or stronger than not cutting either skin from what I saw.

The guy that did mine didn't cut the skin, he ground it down to nothing all the way around, close to where you have yours marked. Then the outter skin came off and he prepped everything for "glue and screw". The difference was my wood was good but the idiot that did it before me DID NOT BOND THE OUTTER SKIN TO THE WOOD.

Got the outter skin glued and screwed back on, then its just a matter of building up layers over the part that was ground out in order to re-attach the skin. Then some fairing and sanding and done.

It would seem to me that just going in from the top it would be harder to get the best bond. But like I said, this was my only experience so I haven't seen other methods in person. When he got done you couldn't tell it had been touched and it was very solid. Solid enough for the new owner to hang a 200 johnyrude.

Wish I had pics but I don't.

[Stillrunning]

I took my boat apart and fixed it from the inside and avoided having to repair the outside but my boat was a CC. We had the boat apart in one weekend and it was pretty easy. This also gives you access to inspect the runners and if you have any soft spots in the flooring you can repair it from the under side and avoid additional cutting.

[tsubaki]

Allright, what about the pictures and progress so far??

[overboard]

Well,......The only sign of rot is a 2" x 1" spot right on the top of the transom. I jumped on the cavitation plate of the old motor before I took it off. I'm basically wussing out at the last minute. I ordered the fixed jack plate that Tsubaki showed me and I am fabricating an aluminum cap/plate to cover the dip in the transom. I figure that I can have it up and running quickly this way. Even if it's a temporary set up, I am itching to get this boat back on the water to chase some halibut and rock cod. If it gets me through summer it's well worth it to me. I WILL be doing this transom the correct way at a later time. I know, I know -what a wuss.

Well since we are on the same time table I am sticking with you. Leave the ***** in the water and enjoy her, worry about it this winter. Thanks.

[msbhammer]

I did mine from the inside. Alot of hard work. I would actually use that pour in seacast stuff next time. seems to save lots of time.

[mauryc]

PLEASE see my post for my transom repair. You have the perfect canidate with the lower older style transom. If done right you will be very happy with no patch lines in the outter or inner hull.

You can call me and I'd be happy to tell you about my experience.

Maury
225-767-1773 (H)

[bigshrimpin]

It's 1000X's easier to hit the boat from the backside. If you cut that transom your done for this year. An Aluminum plate will get you out fishing for albacore and you can worry about the transom in 5years. Your transom just has a little rot at the top.