![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'm not very good with fiberglass work, but I would say that needs to get fixed before any more trips. That is a structural area wher there is quite a bit of flexing, and if that begins to crack downward it could go below the waterline. Looks like your going to need to remove the rubrail and try and get inside the cuddy and build it back up with some stitched cloth and resin. I wouldn't attempt a filler repair on something like that as it wouldn't seem to me to have the required strength needed. Wish I could help out more, but fiberglass work is on that list of things I shouldn't be doing.
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ferms right! I would'nt run it anymore till ya fix it. I'd remove the rubrail and grind out all the damaged area. You'll be able ta see how deep the damage goes as you remove the gelcoat. If the fiberglass looks kinda white it probably delaminated, and needs to come out! You can lay glass and resin back in till you build it back up. Be sure to feather all areas out to get a good bond between old and new glass.
__________________
77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser 72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude Last edited by cfelton; 05-26-2008 at 07:54 AM. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
I know that a good chunk is going have to be ground out so I am not sure I should be the one doing it. I can do a lot of repair work but fiberglass is something I am still figuring out. Does anyone have an idea what this is going to set me back? At some point I have to balance repair cost vs the total cost of a '84 hull.
-Svence
__________________
1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
for somthing like that just score some poly resing and some chop mat. then paint it if you dont want to re gel. |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thats more of pain then it is hard to fix.
Rub rail off, grind down to the glass, 4 inches away from all around the damaged area. Start laying glass, till it is all the same as the out side edges, then go inside and do the same. Sand all till it looks good gel coat and paint to match, I bet thats not more then a couple of days work. Then you have to put the rub rail back on and there is the hard work, cause to get it off most screws will be junk and you will have to put all new. Depending how it goes you might just replace the whole thing?
__________________
1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
-Svence
__________________
1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Did you ever do this work? I have the same issue. The previous owner just through a bunch of epoxy on it....and did a piss poor job of it. I noticed it was a little flexible around the damage so I started pealing away the epoxy to replace with marine tex for the time being. Well there is a hole through the hull into the anchor locker area.
For the meantime I am going to stuff back with epoxy but how do you glass a hole?? My thought was to grind it down and start laying glass from inside the anchor locker. That would buildup a good backing and then I could either glass on top of that from the outside....or marine tex over it and sand??? Thoughts
__________________
SALTY CRACKERS Brian Stuart Daphne, AL 1989 V20 Dual Console |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|