Seacast Transom Repair

[drj]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

07-18-2007, 12:37 AM
drj
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: fort myers fl
Posts: 15


Transom help On a v20 center console

Can Someone Please give me some suggestions or ideas of how to do a fiberglass transom repair and strengthened. Here is the problem. The transom was replaced professionally and he did a good job except he left space between the new wood and the old fiberglass. I know how to handle that just grind and re glass the corners of the motor well. From there I'm stuck. The last owner did a botch fiberglass job to shorten the transom for a 20 inch motor. he did not glass the top of the wood good after he cut it but there there appears to be no problem. the problem is where the bolt holes are. Water got in fro the lack of silicone on the bolts and rotted a 3 inch radius around each hole. Can someone please tell me how i can tie in a piece on the top to make it a 20 inch transom again and fix the holes. The transom is not in horrible condition I took an old Johnson 120 off of it and will replace it with a 200 this is not overrated for the boat but I want to make sure with a bigger motor that I do not have any problems.
Please help
thanks
**********************



drj, are the old repairs that big of a mess or you think redoing the same way will be easier?

Believe it or not that is the same transom job that I was talking about in that old thread that you found. I had to get my boat out of my dad's shop because he had to bring his stuff in to work on so I haven't touched the boat since then. =(

I'm not sure I understand what your asking.
Before I bought the boat the transom was redone by a professional fiberglass shop. Then the guy I bought the boat from notched it down 5 inches and didn't put the cap back on where he notched it which allowed water to get in just in the center of the transom. I was going to did the whole thing out and re=do it with seacast until I saw yours and mauryc's replies which made me think about raising it with the seacast and how it would not have as much support. So now I am back to square 1 and I think I am going to redo it with wood. I was reading some threads on here and I saw a link to this other site. This looks about what I was thinking to do now. I am not 100% set on it though. http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745


tsubaki- I hope i answered what you were asking but if not just let me know.

[tsubaki]

I remember the Mako thread, that transom was straight and not tapered like (most of) the V's. Correct me if I'm wrong but the piecing of the transom with wood and cutting the outer skin seems a lot more work and expense than digging and pouring.
Try to post some pictures of this project and/or maybe someone else has better ideas than me.

[drj]

Okay I am going to attempt to post some pictures that I have. Well I thought the seacast would have been easier but when I started to take the wood out I realized the wood was in much better shape then I thought and i calculated the seacast to cost at least 650 for 15 gallons plus whatever else needed.

here is a link to the pictures I'm not sure how to post them directly.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drjmoo1/BoatTransom
the rest of the boat is completely sanded and I am in the process of repairing the cracks and things but I didn't sand the transom area because I didn't know what to do with it yet.
One picture has red lines where I was thinking about sectioning in the new piece.
Thanks for all your ideas. let me know what you think of the pics.

[tsubaki]

I'm just not comfortable about cutting the outside skin on any boat unless there is no other way.
THIS IS A PICTURE OF drj's BOAT.

And what you're proposeing looks rather radical, but that's just me.
Need somebody elses input.

[drj]

I do see your point and I am open to any ideas and am not dead set on anything because I want to make sure it is going to hold up. I did have an outboard break off of an inflatable boat transom once and it wasn't a fun experience. I can't imagine trying to recover a 200hp off the bottom of the river. I did see this picture in one of the galleries and this is where I got the 3 piece transom idea. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/...0001.sized.jpg

[THEFERMANATOR]

SEACAST is expensive, that is why the one member recently went with ARJAY instead. I know it was ALOT less money(about 1/2 as much I believe). Go rent you a chainsaw and get the wood out the easy way. And the pic that TSUBAKI posted would not be removing enough glass to get the old wood out of there IMHO.

[tsubaki]

I agree with Theferm, but look at the price of an electric chainsaw and don't use oil in the bar (I used my wifes).

[drj]

Ya I could go with Arjay. But I am not sure I could raise it the 5".

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

I'm just not comfortable about cutting the outside skin on any boat unless there is no other way.
THIS IS A PICTURE OF drj's BOAT.

And what you're proposeing looks rather radical, but that's just me.
Need somebody elses input.

I did not read this entire thread but if this is the boat I would just remove the inner shell. It looks like you have removed everthing that needs to be removed and all you need is a large tree limb, a pully, rope, and a truck. I took out my inner linner to replace my transom and after I got all the stuff off of the boat it only took about 1 hour to get the linner out and most of that time was rigging the pully and lines. You can then inspect the runners and the florring of the boat.

[drj]

HI again.
I know you all may be tired of me changing my mind on this transom =) but I have finally decided I am going to do a full traditional transom replacement using coosa board. I am going to do it from the inside. A friend of my dad's that now manufactures boats with what used to be the manatee boat molds had a chance to come and look at it for me and this is what he recommended. He said there wouldn't have been any way for me to remove all the wood from the top because it was only rotted in a small place and the other wood had been bonded well. Also because I wanted to make it a full 25 inch transom the pour method wasn't the best method in this situation. I hope I will have an opportunity to begin this weekend. I'll take some good pictures as soon as I begin =).
I was wondering. When cutting fiberglass with a cutoff wheel of grinding it with a grinding wheel do you use metal cutting wheels or masonry wheels. I had been using metal but I though maybe someone may have tried both. thanks guys.