No power to anything

Ok, I posted some pictures I hope will help with this mystery. Look in my gallery for the Pics, golver's 81 V20.

Pic: Wire 1:
1) Hot wire - trim
2) Hot wire - starter
?) Mystery part - does not seem to be connected to anything

Wire2:
1) Mystery Purple wire
2) Hot wire - trim
3) Hot wire - starter
4) Starter post (will turn starter when given power to here)

Wire 3: (picture of starter)
1) Mystery Purple wire
2) Starter post (will turn starter when given power to here)

Wire 4: Under dash
1) Cut yellowish wire
2) Where the wire was cut from
3) When plug is seperated, yellow wire prong is missing. looks broken off.

I am thinking the issue is celinoids. The wires running to the celinoids in picture WIRE1 (line#1&2) are live, but nothing comes out the other side of the celinoid. Items hooked up to the celinoid do not work.

I beleive the celinoid on the left is for the trim and may be a Ford part, the other on the right runs to the starter and may be a GM/Chevy part.

I can not, for the life of me, figure out where the purple wire goes. It can be seen in pics Wire1, 2, & 3.

The starter switch is ok. I ran a wire from the bolt on the starter, pic: Wire 3 (line#2), to the Solonoid post on the starter switch. It turned the engine when I turned the key.

So what do you think, celinoids are the problem, no?

Pic: Wire 4 questions.
Do you think this is the yellow wire that runs to the starter celinoid? Does it have to run through the (Line#3)plug, since the plug has a broken prong where this wire runs in, or can I just splice it past the plug? Where can I get another plug for it?

[macojoe]

Have I suggested you go to a bracket & Outboard before??
If not I will say it now!! Go Outboard & Bracket young man!!

Wireing is not my best area!! I Hate it!! I can tell you that as long as it is right and I have to replace something then I am ok. But if I get a mess to start with then I am lost!

I wish I was more help!! But I pulled my I/O cause of many of the problems you are having now.

I will answer what I no after that I am of no help.

Try calling Wellcraft and asking if they have a wire digram for you? Hers there number 1-941-753-7811, Its worth a try. Or order a manual it might help?

Good Luck!

I contacted them already, they said that manual was out or print. They gave me a listing of generic used colors and guages for instruments.

I prefer the I/O's over the outboards. Every outboard I have ever heard of was never anything but broken. Plus with the I/O, it is basically a car motor. I can fix most of it.

Just this electrical wiring is confusing as anything.

[chumbucket]

One of the biggest problems that I see you're facing is that the wiring is so old and such a mess, it's going to be difficult for anyone, unless truly experienced in boat wiring, to help out. The pics are a bit fuzzy too. I honestly can't help you with the color codes. Boaters World and West Marine both sell an excellent book on 12 volt boat wiring that goes into detail about common color codes that were used in the marine industry. I'd pick up a copy of that if it were my problem. A couple of observations that I might be able to help with though;
The mystery part appears to be a hydraulic cylinder and the boat perhaps had hydraulic steering at one time. I wouldn't worry about that. It's not part of your current problems.
Those type of solenoids are pretty generic and can also be purchased at BW or West for relatively short $$. I do believe they are the source of your problems. A solenoid is nothing more than an electro-magnetic switch that when 12 volts DC is applied to the coil (the small wires), the electro-magnetic coil is energized and pulls up a post that completes the load circuit (large wires) supplying the juice to whatever is to be actuated. I would replace both solenoids.
And, I would try connecting the yellow wire, bypassing the plug after the new solenoids are replaced and see what happens.
I would also be sure your neutral safety switch is working correctly in the control box(just another thought of a possible problem).

[Crusher]

Golver 1 , pictures seem to show a lot of bad ground (corrosion) problems. Start with battery and clean all connections to ign switch. Where coils mount to block and solenoids mount must all have good grounds. wires connecters can be corrodided under heat shrink. Use only marine grade wire and connectors as they are tinned (all strands of wire are soldered and then coated) using automotive wire and connecters is a slow corrosive death in a marine environment. You can check starter neg. jumper battery cable to starter housing, pos. jumper battery cable to + stud on starter. your set up is like pre 73 ford trks that are mounted on fender. You can check grounds by hooking test light to positive post of battery and point (light) end to mounting brackets of of relays and coils. Crusher

[Brian_M]

Golver,

Let me know what year your engine is and HP, I have a Clymer manual with wiring diagrams...I'll copy the page and fax it to you if you'd like...my book covers 64-86 mercruisers.

The book worked wonders as I got my Ebay V20 ready

Brian

[macojoe]

Your mistery part is for the steering!! I had it in my boat also. I don't think it has anything to do with power stering? But then again I never new what it did!! :o

Good luck with the windsheild post also!! I have no idea were your going to get that??

I put in the new solenoid and now it looks like everything works nicely, except the trim.

[macojoe]

;)

Trace the wires. They go to a 2nd selonid and they have nothing to do with the key switch.

Your getting there!!

Yea, I have have 90% of the wiring schematic memorized now. The Trim is a completely seperate system. The only thing it shares with the engine is the battery.

Check my post on Trim power