Replacing stringers while on Roller trailer

cterrebonne · #1 07-07-2012, 05:13 PM

Question for you guys. Have any of you replaced the stringers while the boat was on a roller type trailer? I was thinking I might just make some stands for the hull and do the replacement of the trailer.

Kracker Jack · #2 07-07-2012, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cterrebonne

Question for you guys. Have any of you replaced the stringers while the boat was on a roller type trailer? I was thinking I might just make some stands for the hull and do the replacement of the trailer.

I did it without a problem. I strapped the boat down to keep it from oil canning!! I kept my liner and some of the forward deck so it kept it together. If your gonna remove the liner and stringers then you should think about building a rack like you said

jasoncooperpcola · #3 07-07-2012, 11:31 PM

I would think the rollers would deform the hull without stringers. Best bet is to block it under the transom and up front under the keel along with stands on the side to stabilize it.

cterrebonne · #4 07-08-2012, 06:20 PM

yeah, I think I will have to make some stands for the hull. Any of you guys have made any worth copying?

jasoncooperpcola · #5 07-08-2012, 08:32 PM

When i had the 18 Fish in the garage for two days (until i found out just how bad it was) i had 6x6 blocks under the keel and used a travel trailer stabilizer under each side of the transom. To be safe i run a ratchet strap across the bottom from stabilizer to stabilizer to keep them from coming out. Reel simply used 2x4s cut to the correct length for his side stabilizers.

cterrebonne · #6 07-08-2012, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

When i had the 18 Fish in the garage for two days (until i found out just how bad it was) i had 6x6 blocks under the keel and used a travel trailer stabilizer under each side of the transom. To be safe i run a ratchet strap across the bottom from stabilizer to stabilizer to keep them from coming out. Reel simply used 2x4s cut to the correct length for his side stabilizers.

tonight I went and dug two holes. One for each 4x4 that will be cemented in the ground. Then I will run 4= 2x6x10 bolted to the 4x4's and i will rest the stern on that and then use 2x4's on each side of the hull and and really big block under the bow.

tartuffe · #7 07-09-2012, 02:52 PM

I would take it just a step further. Essentially build a bunk trailer on your 4x4's. Use (2) 2x6x10 bolted to your (2) 4x4's on either side separated so that they are the same distance apart as your stringers (about 33"). I would use my skill saw and rip an angle at the top similar to your boats bottom and staple a few pieces of carpet on that.

You will be surprised how much flex is in these hulls once you take the structure out. I really believe this will save you some headaches later on.

cterrebonne · #8 07-09-2012, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartuffe

I would take it just a step further. Essentially build a bunk trailer on your 4x4's. Use (2) 2x6x10 bolted to your (2) 4x4's on either side separated so that they are the same distance apart as your stringers (about 33"). I would use my skill saw and rip an angle at the top similar to your boats bottom and staple a few pieces of carpet on that.

You will be surprised how much flex is in these hulls once you take the structure out. I really believe this will save you some headaches later on.

that's a good idea. What I was going to do was run a 2x4 under the stringers on top of some blocks for more support. I was also going to do the transom, followed by one stringer at a time.

tartuffe · #9 07-09-2012, 08:05 PM

I should have asked if you are going to cut the floor out or pop the cap off. As you said, you replace the transom then the stringers. Replacing one stringer at a time will be a PITA. Its nice to get down to a clean slate before you start building back.

Your looking at a project thats probably going to take 6 months minimum if you are doing it on your off time. Might as well set up for the long haul. Heck, 4 piers of cinderblocks 2 blocks high with 4x4's would work so long as you have a good stable work platform with lots of straight andeven support you'll be good. Set up as low to the ground as possible is recommended because you will be climbing in and out 100's of times. I've ripped the crotch out of at least 3 pair of jeans.

jasoncooperpcola · #10 07-09-2012, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartuffe

I should have asked if you are going to cut the floor out or pop the cap off. As you said, you replace the transom then the stringers. Replacing one stringer at a time will be a PITA. Its nice to get down to a clean slate before you start building back.

Your looking at a project thats probably going to take 6 months minimum if you are doing it on your off time. Might as well set up for the long haul. Heck, 4 piers of cinderblocks 2 blocks high with 4x4's would work so long as you have a good stable work platform with lots of straight andeven support you'll be good. Set up as low to the ground as possible is recommended because you will be climbing in and out 100's of times. I've ripped the crotch out of at least 3 pair of jeans.

Very good point. Heck i would just set the bottom on some 2x? lumber laid flat. My V20 is on a cinder block topped with a 2x6 in the rear and a stack 3 cinder blocks high up front so it drains. I can step right into the splashwell at that height. Of course this is just for bottom paint stripping. (yeah i know its been three months) Once i get ready to remove the liner for the bracket build, it will be in the garage on 6x6s.

Dont cut your floor. Just pop the cap. In my opinion its easier to pop the cap then repair the floor.