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#1
05-04-2011, 06:58 AM
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Teak
Has anyone used TEAKGUARD, the ad says it's guaranteed to last for 1 year in it's finished condition without redoing.
I know some have Cetrol and other stuff but I'm looking into something more stable. I've done some reading, there is a "paint" that looks like finished teak color and should last for 2-3 years.
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Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson  
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#2
05-04-2011, 07:07 AM
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I don't think a paint or anything that puts coating over the teak is the way to go my friend.
Use the oils, it may not last as long at first but it will not build up and look like a old house thats been painted to many times. A light sanding on the teak and a good replenishing oil in the wood is the only thing in my opinion that should go on teak. Thats what makes it last and stay strong, and well, look like teak.
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Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW
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#3
05-04-2011, 07:51 AM
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Willy, I agree with you on the oil being the nicest looking product on teak. It looks natural and does help to protect the wood. It just doesn't last. I also agree that painting it can lead to some unsightly crap down the road. BUT Cetol is some good stuff. If you damage it it only takes some light sanding and a reapply. I remade the top cap/combing pad and rod holders on the old Pursuit in 2006, put two coats of Cetol Medium and it is still looking good today. It has UV protection built in and the orange hue grows on you when you realize you haven't touched teak oil in the past five years. The trick is in the preparation. Teak cleaner and a wire brush, let it dry, sand it if necessary, hit it with a 50/50 mix of Clorox and water, let it dry, paint the stuff on, let it dry, lightly scuff with scotch brite pad, second coat, put it back on the boat and call me in a decade..
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#4
05-04-2011, 08:24 AM
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i get about 3-5 years out of cetol with no touch ups. the hatch sliders on the bow are the first to show wear. i like oil, but in the fl sun, it breaks down fast. last about 6 months. i know some who oil, then varnish and it looks great, like polyurethane, but recoating is a major pia. but i would definately stay away from any "paint" product.
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#5
05-04-2011, 07:24 PM
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I posted this last year, I can say they all the same condition today..This product works ...
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=13796
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#6
05-05-2011, 07:14 AM
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I completely forgot that one NYMACK, that looks better than the CETOL. You can see more of the natural wood grain. Beautiful job, proves that there is more than one way to skin the cat. That is three options for you Wilson. No more teak for me. I love the looks of it, but lots of work.
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#7
05-05-2011, 07:17 AM
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I sanded and applied five coats of Pettit Captains Marine varnish with UV protectant, and it was beautiful. Its held up good for about five years, but I keep a boat cover on it all the time and its under shelter too. Its starting to peel alittle now and I'll do a touch up job on it this summer. For a boat that stays uncovered all the time I don't think it would stay on as long though. Teak is an oily wood and dosen't take varnishes and solid sealers very good. If I had to do it again I'd just try the Teak Oil products, probably would'nt have that deep glassy shine like the varnish though. Just my opinion!
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 77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser 72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude Last edited by cfelton; 05-05-2011 at 07:24 AM.
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