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  #11  
Unread 02-10-2011, 12:39 PM
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RWilson2526 RWilson2526 is offline
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Told you I didnt know what I was talking about....glad it appears to be something you can handle so far.
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  #12  
Unread 02-10-2011, 02:34 PM
smkinnan smkinnan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisboats View Post
I was going to suggest you decarb the head and cylinder tops while you have it apart but that looks clean enough to leave alone. You could now spray some PB blaster directly on the rings though just to loosen them up. I would get the headgaskets and button her back up and recheck compression. I bet you are going to be pleasantly surprised. Get her healthy on all six and I can find your lost spark.

Brian

Thanks so much, I really appreciate your help. I'll exactly what you are talking about.
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  #13  
Unread 02-17-2011, 10:47 AM
smkinnan smkinnan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisboats View Post
I was going to suggest you decarb the head and cylinder tops while you have it apart but that looks clean enough to leave alone. You could now spray some PB blaster directly on the rings though just to loosen them up. I would get the headgaskets and button her back up and recheck compression. I bet you are going to be pleasantly surprised. Get her healthy on all six and I can find your lost spark.

Brian
ok, got the compression problem fixed with a new set of head gaskets. I installed new thermostats and spark plugs as well. I went ahead and pulled each one of the coils loose and cleaned the contacts on them. Alas, it appears as though I STILL have no spark at all. Starter cranks like crazy and the TNT works well but no spark. What can I look for to find a way to fix the spark issue?
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  #14  
Unread 02-17-2011, 12:33 PM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Did you disconnect the red plug and jump it per Spare? See #2
OMC Six Cylinder Engines
No fire at all:

1. Note: If the engine fires with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.
2. Disconnect the black yellow kill wire and retest. If the engines now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
3. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
4. Check the stator resistance. You should read approximately 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.
5. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack) on each bank.
6. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms.
7. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
8. Check the DVA voltage on the white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
9. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder:

1. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms.
2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
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  #15  
Unread 02-17-2011, 01:21 PM
smkinnan smkinnan is offline
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DVA = ?

Thanks for the reply. That gives me a ton of stuff to check and verify.
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  #16  
Unread 02-17-2011, 04:09 PM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Direct Voltage Adapter - Fluke and many multimeter have it, or can get a adapter...Start with the basics first leave the advance analyses for later you may find the the issue to be simple ...
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