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			#11  
			
			
			
			
			
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			here's a link from MJ's issue with his http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ead.php?t=7580 ok tool time this is a V4 motor but same exact part as V6 here's the valve  here's where it gets water from when it's under 3000 rpms  here's where it is going to under 3000 rpm  here's where it goes above 3000 rpm out to the pisser on the lower housing from the above pic  here it is under 3000  here's above 3000  first you need to remove below screws and nuts   then GENTLY pull out on the throttle arm till pin is out of the valve  now GENTLY pull out till accessible  now mark a location of the center part to out side so you replace correctly then pull out slide pin  then pull out the insert carefully  heres the valve taken out  clean this part very well  here's the inside of the valve with a seal in this ones case some have o-ring  you can grease the rubber seal if in good shape and then light grease on the valve and reinstall usually stops the leak. or you can use the cap covers as below better to use the bypass system   
				__________________ 1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's | 
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			#12  
			
			
			
			
			
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			If you have the white housings, DITCH THEM IMMEDIATELY! OMC issued a bulletin years back about overheating caused by the white housings. The white t-stat housings have a guide on the end of them to help center them in the seat, but all it did was cause overheating as the rubber got older in the seat and wouldn't let them move out when the valve would drop pressure. The black housings are the only housings you are supposed to use now. Inside they both use the same vernotherms, and open and close at the same temp. Clean out the valve that SKOOLS posted, and make sure the linklage is hooked up working to it. Next get a set of the black t-stats and diaphrams and your problems will most likely be over. Also the stats should open up at 160, so it sounds like the springs inside your stats are work hardened from the years anyways. Also pay attention to how the valve comes apart as the valve can be installed 180 degrees out and it won't function properly that way.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 Last edited by THEFERMANATOR; 07-07-2010 at 03:53 PM. | 
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			#13  
			
			
			
			
			
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			skool Thanks for all your help, got it under control for now. Do you know the part number to the black thermostats? The cooler stat. The parts guy thinks i'm crazy when i told about it. Thanks Again | 
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			#14  
			
			
			
			
			
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			You guys rock, Thanks for all the post. I do not have my V-20 anymore but I still feel like part of the Family. Thanks Again, Great Eastern | 
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			#15  
			
			
			
			
			
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			The housings are different, but the vernotherm inside will be the same. You want the black housings though as the white ones are nothing but trouble. The parts you need are 2 0394408                                                      DIAPHRAGM,  Thermostat cover and 2 0434137                                                      THERMOSTAT  ASSY. Once you have the updated housings you can just replace the vernatherms in the future for alot less money.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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