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#1
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Fiberglass question
I am glassing up my new transom with 17oz. bidirectional cloth (pretty thick), I put the first layer on and spread out the resin, after rolling out all the air ( or so I thought ) there were a couple of small areas that remained a little white in color. After it dried I tapped on those areas and I could tell that the resin did not soak through. I have already done the outside of the transom and it came out nice, I guess I was rushing or somthing that day. My question is what is the best way to correct it so I can continue with more coats of resin?
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#4
04-25-2010, 12:42 PM
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Here is a pic
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/IMG_0031.jpg
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#5
04-25-2010, 12:55 PM
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Are you using epoxy with 1708? The glue binder in 1708 does not breakdown with epoxy and makes a nice milky looking color like that when it cures. It also can make the laminate cure to a rubbery consistency. If that's not epoxy . . . then make sure you sand and wipe the surface before adding additional layers of material. Roll resin on the surface before laying the 1708 on it.
Last edited by bigshrimpin; 04-25-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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#6
04-25-2010, 05:25 PM
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I am using west system epoxy 105/205, yes I sanded the pre resined wood and then wiped with lacquer thinner, then wet out some resin, then added the cloth (backed with 3/4 oz. mat) then put more resin, I did other areas on the transom which came out good, think I just didn't work it in enough in these spots, tried sanding one of them down pretty far ( almost through to wood then resined the spot and it did go through to the wood, also cut out one, and I will add a patch, this will create more coats of resin to level things out, not sure if I want to do that all around. Not sure what the best way to go is?
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#7
04-25-2010, 08:29 PM
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Why is there never enough time to do the job right the first time, but always time to do the job right the second time? (Sorry, not meaning ANYONE here, just an old saying that seems somehow appropriate.) Like Nymack66 said, if it's not done correctly it will fail prematurely. If you think it's wrong it probably is. IMHO I would remove it and redo it.. a little time now will save you huge time later.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#8
04-26-2010, 09:30 AM
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more coats will never fix that issue now as it can't soak in threw the current epoxy. you could try drilling several small holes in just the glass in those areas and the pump epoxy in and let it bond the areas together. drill size i wouldn't drill any larger than a 1/4 hole. drill an inspection hole anyway to see if it is a vold or just a flush issue that made the epoxy to drt milky from moisture in the air or air temps. it may be find as it is if it was just a temp / moisture issue making it milky.
__________________
 1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's
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#9
04-26-2010, 03:12 PM
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I cut away a little piece that I know was a bubble and forced resin behind it with a brush, it worked. I know it is not a climate issue because I only work with the resin/glass on dry sunny days. It seems like a pain to do that in all the areas but i may have to.
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#10
04-26-2010, 03:30 PM
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Yet another reason Blue Runner is not a glass man.
But I do admire you guys who are!!!!! 
__________________
 1994 Wellcraft V21
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