Location of bildges

BOATINGMATT · #1 10-28-2009, 08:02 PM

I am a new owner of an old v20..The previous owner didnt have bildge pump..he just trailered it ..why he didnt have i don tknow. I will be keeping my boat at a mooring and im setting up a pump system. Im putting one rule 800 in the back of the boat whe its looks like ther may have been one befor..all the water seem to drain to the well in the stern area. Do i need a pump in the front near the bow???
thanks

nymack66 · #2 10-28-2009, 09:25 PM

Its your call I guess, I personally have 2 pumps a Rule 800 and a 1500 wire separate for redundancy, however both is at the back only I thought about moving one closer to the front ..

spareparts · #3 10-28-2009, 10:27 PM

I have two 2000 gph pumps with independant auto switches, they flow thru 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, I'm going to add another pump in the cabin later. I have replaced far too many pumps that should have been working, but didn't. I allways tell people, if you wonder about your pump, leave the drain plug out the next time you launch your boat, don't pull it off the trailer just yet, just leave it hooked up, open the bilge access and see if your pump can keep up with just the drain plug hole, I doubt it will. Pumps are rated at max voltage(14), and no head pressure(no rise in the hose, or hose for that matter), using corrigated hose( not smooth wall intermally) will usually cut your flow in half, 90 degree bulkhead fittings don't help either

THEFERMANATOR · #4 10-28-2009, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareparts

I have two 2000 gph pumps with independant auto switches, they flow thru 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, I'm going to add another pump in the cabin later. I have replaced far too many pumps that should have been working, but didn't. I allways tell people, if you wonder about your pump, leave the drain plug out the next time you launch your boat, don't pull it off the trailer just yet, just leave it hooked up, open the bilge access and see if your pump can keep up with just the drain plug hole, I doubt it will. Pumps are rated at max voltage(14), and no head pressure(no rise in the hose, or hose for that matter), using corrigated hose( not smooth wall intermally) will usually cut your flow in half, 90 degree bulkhead fittings don't help either

Geez spare, my buddies 43 only has 3(one in each seperated compartement) 1500GPH bilge pumps in it, and that thing is HUGE.

spareparts · #5 10-29-2009, 07:27 AM

I was called to check out a 32 Cruiser the other day. The owner had cleaned the airconditioner strainer and didn't tighten the lid properly when he left on Friday, it wasn't leaking that bad, just a good dribble(we found the leak later). When I got there on the following Monday, it had 6 inches of salt water above the salon floor, water was up to the bottom of the manifolds of the engines. I had three 2000 gph pumps, all with independant float switches. One pump was bad, one pump had a bad float switch, the other pump couldn't keep up with the water leak. The water had gotten high enough to short out the battery charger, the last pump had run the house batteries dead. We turned on all the bilge pump switches, none were pumping because of the dead batteries, luckily the engine batteries were still hot. I jumped the engine battery to the house and got two pumps runnning, we added a 3500 gph 110 volt emergency pump plugged into shore power. We were able to shut off all the seacocks, not knowing what was leaking. After about an hour, I think the water had dropped 6 inches, I was able to pull the hose off of the port engine seacock and stuck in the bilge, we fired the engine up and used the engines raw water pump as a "crash pump" and pumped the rest of the water out in no time. So far, this guy has spent about $7000 fixing problems that have come up since then from the salt water intrusion. I can't believe the genset is still working. POint of the story is, bilge pumps are lucky to pump 1/3 of their rating in real world conditions, and they are allways subject to failure and or dead batteries if left unattended. I'm finding they usually only have about a three to four year life span on average. I'd tell your buddy to replace all his pumps with bigger ones, and replace the float switches as well(make sure to use high amp ones)

Skools Out · #6 10-29-2009, 09:07 AM

my 21 had a rule 1750 main and a blackmax 800 as back up never have enough of those. my V20 i've got 2 rule 1250 pumps.

nipper · #7 10-29-2009, 09:46 AM

Regardless of size and backup (I agree size matters and a backup is a must), I think they both need to be near the stern of the boat, and nothing would be needed up in the bow area given the way a v sits in the water. Am I right on this guys?

Skools Out · #8 10-29-2009, 10:53 AM

yes as in most hulls you need them at the transom if there is enough water for a front pump to run it's going to sink, unless it's a non front draining hull like my Sea Ray 250 it has a bilge area in the cabin but the V has a cabin drain tube to the transom.

spareparts · #9 10-29-2009, 03:22 PM

on my 79, I relocated the batteries from the aft bilge to where the fishing boxes are, I left one pump in the aft bilge, put one pump in the same area where the batteries are, and plan to put one pump in the area in front of the fuel tank, I figure it that way, any area thats dependant on draining thru a bulkhead will have its own pump

macojoe · #10 10-29-2009, 08:39 PM

You guy will remember my V never had pumps for a long time and that is because of them failing all the time! I hate them!
The OX has 2 that came with the boat, one in the rear and one in the cabin, both wired seprate and on float switches. One was messed up already with a bad float switch :( What is so hard about making a good working pump?? They cost enough for these junks!