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  #1  
Old 12-05-2008, 02:25 PM
shaneburris74 shaneburris74 is offline
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Default Transom.....son of a b!&*(

Aright guys as most of you know I'm doing a transom rebuild. I startedtearing out all the wood to do the poor method..the same as MauryC did. I know "this thread is useless without pics." I'll get em....The problem I have run into is that the wood at the bottom of the transom is a beast to get out. I've gotten as far as I can with a chainsaw....I've got an exteded bore bit I'm working with now..or was...I have broken off the extender last night. I don't think there is anyway I can totally clean all the wood out with out cutting the outer skin off to expose it. So I want some opinions from you guys..so here' s my thoughts:

Am I just being a pansy and I need to just keep chipping away at it?

Can I leave some wood in the bottom and just bore holes in it and pour the compound and expect the compound to fill it up and everything be ok? (theres about 4" of hard wood in the lower corners)

Do I just go ahead and cut the skin off and clean it out and then do a patch job and put it back on? how difficult is that patch job? I know NYMack did it this way......

Thanks for you help guys.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:49 PM
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tsubaki tsubaki is offline
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Just to see if you have looked at this one.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...t=specs&page=6
In my case there was a void between the transom, floor and stringers, about 3" from the bottom that I had to pack in order to prevent the poured material from escaping.
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:07 PM
shaneburris74 shaneburris74 is offline
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I checked out your thread..I had read it before but its been a while. What kind of money are we talking for the glass panels and resin? My heartache will putting the skin back on...I've never worked with fiberglass....I think I could probably handle it...I just don't know if it will be pretty when I'm finished...lol
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:12 PM
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I happened to have the panels, I gotta reread the thread to see how many gallons of resin and cloth used.
Here is someone that carries a bunch of stuff.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:15 PM
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Dear GOD, I had a fortune of the glass plank, it was 48x48.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...berglass+Board
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Old 12-05-2008, 05:21 PM
shaneburris74 shaneburris74 is offline
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If you ad that to the resin...looks like it would be more expensive than the nida core pore...I'm gonna stick with it. I'm gonna go get another extender tomorrow (i broke two drilling...one just snapped and one the set screw stripped) and keep hacking away at it. If it wears me out again I 'll just cut the back off and go from there....but for now I'm gonna keep charging down that hole and breaking tools....
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Old 12-05-2008, 06:24 PM
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Where are the pictures???
And are you heating a garage for the resin to set?
Dese temps are gonna be a killer!!
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:33 PM
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Get a long piece of steel or a straight crowbar sharpen the edge and start chiseling it out!! Most say that it won't stick to wood.
But if you get 95% I think you will be fine.

Also did you check the ends of your stringers?? they rot right were they go into the transom, easy to cut off the rot now add new wood and then pour , you be good forever after that
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:31 PM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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My advice is to cut the skin see my post very important where you cut it, I ran into the same problem solid wood at the bottom, Nothing beats removing all the wood this is very important since the new transom will be much stronger by gluing it self to the bottom of the Boat this is its strongest point of contact.
Its no big deal attaching the skin see my post if I can do so can you.
I use Resin (Gel) from Auto Zone and mat& resin from Boaters World
The time and effort you save by removing the skin is worth it.
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  #10  
Old 12-06-2008, 11:38 AM
shaneburris74 shaneburris74 is offline
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NYMack,
Alright..I'm still seriously considering it....more to follow. I gotta get some pics up too. Later guys.
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