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  #1  
Unread 05-26-2008, 01:09 AM
Chesapeake Troller Chesapeake Troller is offline
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Default 2 questions: Filling in Transom and Extending Hull length

Hi to all,

Great site! I just found you guys and wish I had had this type of resource when I was a V20 owner!!

I am a previous owner of a V20 ('84 with a flush deck cabin and 488 I/O) and am looking to come back to the dark side with a project hull. It is a center console w/o engine I can get for less than $1,000. I am looking to fill in the transom completely and add a outboard bracket and was hoping to get some pointers from those whom have already blazed that trail.

On my second question; a glass and restoration guy here in Florida and I were discussing this hull a couple of years ago and he wanted to take a 20 and extend it's length when modifying the transom for the installation of a bracket. Anybody done or heard of this being done and have thoughts and suggestions on the idea? I like the idea of more room in the cockpit (As you might get from my name, I prefer to troll and the more uncluttered space in the back the better). Also the greater length for what I preceive to be better riding and stability (not that the 20 is bad in either, I just would like to run farther offshore for what I do and the extra length would also allow for a larger tank). On the flip side, I know nothing about the risk of doing this from a safety position...Would it even be workable?

Thanks for your help and advice in advance guys.

CT

Last edited by Chesapeake Troller; 05-26-2008 at 07:18 AM.
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  #2  
Unread 05-26-2008, 06:50 AM
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Welcome Troller to the dark side!
When you say extend the transom are talking about extending with fiberglass the actual transom or closing in the existing transom and adding a bracket such as a Armstrong or Stainless Marine type?
The extended actual transom was done by the factory in the V21 (1990's)
The bracket on an enclosed transom has been done dozens of times here by guys.
The most common is the boats that were originally OMC Sea Drives as they had an enclosed transom with a small hole cut into it for the controls to go thru. These and what were originally I/O s like your previous boat are the ones that get the bracket added the most.
A boat with a standard notched transom could also be closed and a bracket added but you would have to be an good fiberglass guy to do it right. If your transom is currently in very good condition closing it in would not be that difficult. If it is old and tired or wet then it is much more work removing old and installing new and you could make it anything you want when you do it.
Others with glass experience will chime in but adding the bracket and enclosing the transom has very good results with the V hull. Better performance, ride and being enclosed makes it a little safer in my opinion.
Good luck which ever way you go
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Unread 05-26-2008, 07:28 AM
Chesapeake Troller Chesapeake Troller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willy View Post
When you say extend the transom are talking about extending with fiberglass the actual transom or closing in the existing transom and adding a bracket such as a Armstrong or Stainless Marine type?
Both actually, Willy, and thanks for the reply. One way or the other I plan to have a closed transom in the final product. The question I have is can I extend the length of the hull straight back 2 to 4 feet when I cut off the transom (actually have an glass and restoration expert do it) and then finish the extention with the closed transom for a bracket like the armstrong. Can it be done, what is the best way to do it, would it be safe?

I figure if it has been done someone here will know about it!

CT
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Unread 05-26-2008, 06:53 PM
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I would think you could get a second project hull and cut a 2 or 3 foot section out of it towards the rear, cut your transom off and extend it that way. It would be pretty Monster Garage and you'd have to build stringers and be good with fiberglass....but you'd be the only one with a custom V24!
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Unread 05-26-2008, 07:14 PM
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There was a guy that owned a boat yard here and he extended a 23 mako about 3 feet. he had all kind of resources at his disposal and it came out great. they cut it about the rear of the rodboxes and glassed in a section. all things considered, you'd probaly be better off finding a 23 dusky. if you putting it up for a vote, i say go for it, with plenty of pictures
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Unread 05-26-2008, 08:06 PM
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I think it would be a sweet looking ride. The ride characteristics would be a lot different. I think it would handle far better in windy situations than the 20's. With our large flared bows and short waterline lengths, it makes for some hairy manouvering around tight docks and ramps when a strong breeze is blowing. I wonder, if you are gonna add 4 feet, if there would be enough floatation to go to twin engines? I've been thinking about adding some spray rails to the chines and add a small keel fin toward the bow for handling. I think if you can afford to do it, then do it.
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Unread 05-26-2008, 08:57 PM
Chesapeake Troller Chesapeake Troller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatdaddy View Post
all things considered, you'd probaly be better off finding a 23 dusky. if you putting it up for a vote, i say go for it, with plenty of pictures
Guys thanks for the comments. Phatdaddy why the 23 Dusky? I have always liked the Dusky's myself and the way they sell them (factory direct).

Branford I had not thought about a second hull and cut and paste so to speak, thanks for the idea. My mechanic has a old V20 hull in his yard that could work if that is the way my glass guy wants to run with it.

BCMarinaManager part of my internal argument on this project is just how far to stretch it before I am forced to move up in engine size. Going with two is not going to happen, I have two inboard 6's in my current boat and the gas, double maintenance, double everything takes the fun out of boat ownership! My goal is to keep the length so a single 150 4 stroke will push it effectively both in cost and reasonable cruising speed (my days of running WOT just cause I can are way over with gas at $4 a gallon and getting higher!). The battle between 150 and 175 and either 20.6, 22.6, or 24 will be both an art and a science. First I need to figure out if I can even do it or not, then cost it out. On that issue; I will have to redo the deck, console, fill in the transom, and add the engine bracket so I will already have the boat apart so the extra lengthening of 2 to 4 feet may not be a deal breaker cost wise.

All part of the fun and reward of old boat ownership and restoration!

Thanks for the replies guys, not having this group as a resource would make this project a lot harder.



CT
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  #8  
Unread 05-26-2008, 09:32 PM
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I know that you don't like two engines, but here is an example when two is better. You are even just 10 miles offshore and your engine dies. Hopefully you either have a really good paddle or twin engines. As for a 150, I am a faster kind of guy, and would recommend twin 90s or 115s. I agree that twin inboards and I/Os are high maintenance, but todays outboards are movin' on up. I guarantee that twin 115s at midrange will get better mileage than a 150 at top end. My father had a V20 in the late '70s with twin jonnyrude 85s and says that it would get on a plane with just one. He also says that he would go 30+ miles offshore with just the 40 gallons, and that was before the great world of fourstroke outboards. I also read that you like to troll. How about a 9.9 kicker or something? That would save gas, provide an extra engine, and be great for trolling. I'll bet even that would be better than a kicker.
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Unread 05-26-2008, 11:41 PM
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That kicker motor is what I did for my V when I had it. It actually puched that hull at just over 10mph.
In regards to extending the V20 hull I think it would be a great exercise in design, I would love to see it done just as I would love to watch Salma Hayek in the shower.
But the reality is this in my mind, it is always fun to play and who knows it might turn out to be something great. But would it be a dramatic improvement? I doubt it would. Again I think it would be a cool thing to see but I do not believe you would improve much in the performance or design.
I tell you what would be pretty cool. Build the new transom full across the back with either a glass Euro design or V21 design transom and add a contemporary Live well built in, which is the one thing I felt the V's lacked and really needed. Built into the transom like they do now. Build in good fishing rod holders in that transom along with some tackle storage. Make sure the transom blocks the majority of the sound of the motor, which was one of the major improvements in my mind from Old Schools full transom and bracket combo. You could sit there in the cockpit underway and have a normal conversation with someone. I liked that a lot.
Whatever you do to it make sure you plan for balance in the hull. It should sit level at rest with the scuppers a couple of inches above the waterline.
The Marine Surveyors sites have listed that as the number one problem with many boat/engine combos where they were doing surveys of boats with problems or which were insurance losses.
JMHO
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1986 V20 Old School
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1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector
2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW
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  #10  
Unread 05-27-2008, 06:20 AM
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c troll, The dusky hull & the v-20 hull are very similar & dusky makes a model with a forward cuddy(like the v-20). i've even thought of putting a center console in a v-20 cuddy model. get rid of the windshield & have the best of both worlds.
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