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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
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|  2 questions: Filling in Transom and Extending Hull length 
			
			Hi to all, Great site! I just found you guys and wish I had had this type of resource when I was a V20 owner!! I am a previous owner of a V20 ('84 with a flush deck cabin and 488 I/O) and am looking to come back to the dark side with a project hull. It is a center console w/o engine I can get for less than $1,000. I am looking to fill in the transom completely and add a outboard bracket and was hoping to get some pointers from those whom have already blazed that trail. On my second question; a glass and restoration guy here in Florida and I were discussing this hull a couple of years ago and he wanted to take a 20 and extend it's length when modifying the transom for the installation of a bracket. Anybody done or heard of this being done and have thoughts and suggestions on the idea? I like the idea of more room in the cockpit (As you might get from my name, I prefer to troll and the more uncluttered space in the back the better). Also the greater length for what I preceive to be better riding and stability (not that the 20 is bad in either, I just would like to run farther offshore for what I do and the extra length would also allow for a larger tank). On the flip side, I know nothing about the risk of doing this from a safety position...Would it even be workable? Thanks for your help and advice in advance guys. CT Last edited by Chesapeake Troller; 05-26-2008 at 07:18 AM. | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Welcome Troller to the dark side! When you say extend the transom are talking about extending with fiberglass the actual transom or closing in the existing transom and adding a bracket such as a Armstrong or Stainless Marine type? The extended actual transom was done by the factory in the V21 (1990's) The bracket on an enclosed transom has been done dozens of times here by guys. The most common is the boats that were originally OMC Sea Drives as they had an enclosed transom with a small hole cut into it for the controls to go thru. These and what were originally I/O s like your previous boat are the ones that get the bracket added the most. A boat with a standard notched transom could also be closed and a bracket added but you would have to be an good fiberglass guy to do it right. If your transom is currently in very good condition closing it in would not be that difficult. If it is old and tired or wet then it is much more work removing old and installing new and you could make it anything you want when you do it. Others with glass experience will chime in but adding the bracket and enclosing the transom has very good results with the V hull. Better performance, ride and being enclosed makes it a little safer in my opinion. Good luck which ever way you go 
				__________________ Willy 1986 V20 Old School 1992 V20 1992 150 Yamaha 1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector 2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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 I figure if it has been done someone here will know about it! CT | 
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			I would think you could get a second project hull and cut a 2 or 3 foot section out of it towards the rear, cut your transom off and extend it that way.  It would be pretty Monster Garage and you'd have to build stringers and be good with fiberglass....but you'd be the only one with a custom V24!
		 
				__________________ 1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			There was a guy that owned a boat yard here  and he extended a 23 mako about 3 feet.  he had all kind of resources at his disposal and it came out great.  they cut it about the rear of the rodboxes and glassed in a section.  all things considered, you'd probaly be better off  finding a 23 dusky.  if you putting it up for a vote, i say go for it, with plenty of pictures
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			I think it would be a sweet looking ride. The ride characteristics would be a lot different. I think it would handle far better in windy situations than the 20's. With our large flared bows and short waterline lengths, it makes for some hairy manouvering around tight docks and ramps when a strong breeze is blowing. I wonder, if you are gonna add 4 feet, if there would be enough floatation to go to twin engines? I've been thinking about adding some spray rails to the chines and add a small keel fin toward the bow for handling. I think if you can afford to do it, then do it.
		 
				__________________ Captain Jon | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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|   Quote: 
 Branford I had not thought about a second hull and cut and paste so to speak, thanks for the idea. My mechanic has a old V20 hull in his yard that could work if that is the way my glass guy wants to run with it. BCMarinaManager part of my internal argument on this project is just how far to stretch it before I am forced to move up in engine size. Going with two is not going to happen, I have two inboard 6's in my current boat and the gas, double maintenance, double everything takes the fun out of boat ownership! My goal is to keep the length so a single 150 4 stroke will push it effectively both in cost and reasonable cruising speed (my days of running WOT just cause I can are way over with gas at $4 a gallon and getting higher!). The battle between 150 and 175 and either 20.6, 22.6, or 24 will be both an art and a science. First I need to figure out if I can even do it or not, then cost it out. On that issue; I will have to redo the deck, console, fill in the transom, and add the engine bracket so I will already have the boat apart so the extra lengthening of 2 to 4 feet may not be a deal breaker cost wise. All part of the fun and reward of old boat ownership and restoration! Thanks for the replies guys, not having this group as a resource would make this project a lot harder.  CT | 
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