Trouble in Paradise

Blue_Runner · #1 03-31-2005, 01:24 PM

Howdy folks. I've been away for a while. I've been busy tearing up my boat ;D

I have 2 problems now::

1) My o/b decided it didn't want to start by the key anymore. BUT, it really liked it when I took the positive and jumped over the solenoid directly to the starter, and started right up. Another symptom of this problem is that the tilt/trim isn't getting juice either. I think it could be one of 3 things. Bad solenoid (but would this cause the tilt/trim to not work?), bad control key switch, or bad engine wiring harness?? Any ideas? My first thought is to replace the $30 solenoid.

2) As I've said before, my transom was replaced by the p/o about 2 years ago. I don't know who he got to do it, but apparently they cut the "skin" off the outside (back) of the boat to do the work, then glassed the skin back on after installing new wood. The problem is, there is a small gap (maybe 1/2" at most) between the outer skin and the new wood. The weight of the motor flexed the outer skin at the bottom of the engine mount to the point that I now have a 4" crack along the "cut line" where the skin was originally cut. Now, my question for you is this: Marinetex or West System? Or pull motor and have a professional look at it????

Thank you,
BR

reelapeelin · #2 03-31-2005, 03:28 PM

Not knowing how to use fiberglass myself, It would be the fiberglass-man for me...sounds like w/ a gap that size it needs some professional help... ;) 8)...think you are past Marinetex, etc...

BR...can you see into the gap...!/2" is a pretty big opening... :o ;)

Blue_Runner · #3 03-31-2005, 04:59 PM

You can't really see into it. But, when you tap around there are some hollow sounds in spots. I do know for a fact the wood in the transom is new due to the good looking wood shavings that came out when I hung my motor. The transom is very strong internally - there is no flex - its just this problem with stress being put on the skin due to the gap between new wood and fiberglass. A real bummer I tell ya. Calgon, take me away!!

reelapeelin · #4 03-31-2005, 05:37 PM

BR...I'd let a PRO lookat it...fix might be injectable rather than havin' to remove to replace...bottom line is, if there is open space inside a transom, water WILL find it's way in...especially if motor is cracking outter shell... :P ;)

Good luck w/ it either way... ;D

Blue_Runner · #5 03-31-2005, 07:10 PM

Injectable (you mean like my old lady?) - readin my mind dude. I've been tossin that thought around in my head ;D

phester · #6 03-31-2005, 09:55 PM

how about that seacast material? I myself have never used it but it may be an easy and effective repair.

reelapeelin · #7 03-31-2005, 10:03 PM

Seacast is what I was thinkin', but crack under motor could still be problem even w/ dose of Seacast...I know if it was mine, I'd have to find somebody that KNOWS... ;) :D

phester · #8 03-31-2005, 10:09 PM

it is a critical repair, certianly you dont want to be on the learning curve with that one

Franco · #9 03-31-2005, 10:18 PM

I concur with reelapeelin and phester, It's not worth the potential damage to do it halfway.
On your electrial repair - take a voltmeter and chek the output coming from the ignition switch and work your back

#10 04-01-2005, 12:46 AM

I did my transom with seacast and the only way you would be able to use it is to cut the top of the transom off and dig all the wood out with a chain saw and long drill bits. i don't think you could inject sea cast it is way to thick. If I had to do it all over again I would use the seacast. it is lighter and stronger than wood. Go to www.transomrepair.com and check it out. and as for the crack a little glassing before you pour will take care of that. it cost me right at $380.00 to do my transome with no more worries about rot.