Airslot

garagenc · #1 02-14-2007, 05:15 PM

UPS delivered my B60-20 transducer lastnite. Now I have to put it in. Has anyone posted info on putting a thru hull in and what problems they had during the installation?

C YENSEN · #2 02-14-2007, 05:22 PM

NO EXPERIENCE HERE, BUT WE ALL WOULD LIKE TO SEE SOME PICS OF THE PROCESS. ;D

Airslot · #3 02-14-2007, 06:26 PM

Hmmm, go to classicmako.com and search for transducer. Look for posts by "Warthog" He's done a bunch of them. Another place with the info all posted if THT in the electronics forum. There is on thread there about 9 pages long dealing with this 'ducer. Or, if ya wait a few months, I'll do it first ;D

Airslot

Airslot · #4 02-14-2007, 06:31 PM

Never mind. Go here:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/t...ighlightmode=1

Read it all and you'll have no more questions.

Have fun ;D

Airslot

garagenc · #5 02-15-2007, 02:29 AM

thanks I'll check out the link.

reelapeelin · #6 02-15-2007, 09:13 AM

CB can tell ya how to do it if he comes along... ;) ...

throwback · #7 02-15-2007, 01:05 PM

airslot

Have put a few thruhulls in. I assume that your putting it in the V20. The trick is to get it to shoot straight down.
Look at hull make sure that your location does not line up with a stringer. Put it back as far as possible it needs to be in the water when boat is on plane.

On a deep v hull you need to fabricate a wedged shaped fairing blockl that matches the deadrise of the hull. As a pattern I have always used a piece of cellulose form. Its easy to shape and work with. Cut it to
fit the hull deadrise- trial and error. Once you get the angle right drill a hole thru it size of transducer. Use this to mark spot on hull to drill hole. Drill hole. You can make the permainent block out of hardwood but the last one I made used a couple of pieces of nylon that I glued togather. Used the cellulose template as a model
A bandsaw makes the whole process easy. Stick fearing block to hull with silicon underwater sticky stuff 3 m 5200
I think. You will also need to fabracate a piece to fit under the ring on the tranducer for inside of the hull. Plywood works about 4 inches sq with hole for tranducer
glue it into place so it lines up with bottom fairing block.
Lots of sealent or it will leak.
Slide transducer thru so it lines up with bottom of fairing
block. Adj with locking nut.

Again its a bit tricky with a deep v hull because you need to get the beam to shoot
as straight down as possible.

Airslot · #8 02-15-2007, 01:26 PM

Throwback, get with the times man ;D Airmar has a new transducer that has a tilted element. The housing mounts flush with the hull bottom and protrudes 3/16" of an inch. The transducer is "tilted" 20* in the housing so it will shoot straight down. No fairing block needed. Its a really slick unit. Looks like this:

Airslot

garagenc · #9 02-15-2007, 04:11 PM

Throwback
I bought the ducer Airslot has shown above. I already have a existing hole in the area I was planning on putting this one. I have to enlarge the existing hole but I don't think it will be a problem. After reading some links supplied from some of our members I'm planning on enlarging the interior hole to about 5-6" so I have some meat there. Then I'll glass and seal in additional blocking inside for the ducer to seal against.

I'm planning to start as soon as I get some time and it warms up or I get a portable heater for the garage.

throwback · #10 02-15-2007, 10:57 PM

Neat unit the last one I put in was in a uniflite. The glass
was damn near an inch thick. Hole saw was not deep enough to cut thru the hull. Guess I am just an oldtimer
with these new toys. Have a furuno commercial unit on my 27. Can read the bottom in the wash canyon in over 2000 foot. Have picked wrecks out at 2300 foot