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#1
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As a novice, I humbly seek the advice of all the old salts out there. I had my '89 V20 out on the water a few weekends ago and noticed that the motor was not wanting to trim up. The trim response has always been a bit sluggish so I guess whatever issue was underlying finally came to a head. Fortunately the motor wasn't all the way down so I was able to carefully get the boat back on the trailer without any scrapes. My buddy and I were able to lift the motor with the manual override and get her back home. I've done some research on what the issue could be but I'm hoping someone can offer some advice. I made sure the fluid is topped off and tried the swapping relays trick but still no luck. I can hear the motor trying to work but it just won't budge. I'm hoping that maybe both relays crapped out on me so I don't have to Break Out Another Thousand. I appreciate any advice anyone may have to offer.
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#2
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OK. From the start I'll offer that I do not know what the problem is. However I can make a few deductions and comments.
1) You say you can hear the motor trying to work, so from that we can deduce certain things. We know (suspect) that both of your solonoids are good and are working. And we can suspect that either your motor is shorted or something is mechanically preventing it from working. That prevention could be either inside your motor or outside. (Loose/cracked magnet, part of same, rust, corrosion, bad brushes, etc) The first thing you need to do is determine if indeed the motor is working. Go here for a proceedure to test if the motor is ok electrically. http://gracomfg.blogspot.com/2013/01...motor-for.html 2) Have you checked your system for the proper amount of hydraulic fluid? Since you didn't tell us what kind of an engine you have or the year I can't give you specific advice. Different systems have different ways of doing this so I cannot help you other than to tell you to check. Low or no fluid will result in the engine not moving. 3) As an aside. You said that you and your friend manually lifted the engine to get the boat home. Why? Lifting the engine places increased torsional stress on the transom since you are changing the engines center of mass. The further out from the stern, the more torque you apply at the point where the engine attaches to the boat. If you are using a "transom saver" type of device to support the engine to the trailer it's true that will somewhat lessen the problem, but it will increase the stress placed on the transom and the engine with every bump you hit. Your trailer should be high enough that your engine can safely be lowered to an upright position for trailering. If it is not than something is wrong. If your engine's skeg or prop is hitting the ground or is very close to it than a) you have the wrong size engine [I.E. a 25" shaft on a 20" transom] or b) your trailer, where it connects to your tow vehicle, is set to the wrong height. (Your trailer tongue should be level when it's attached to your tow vehicle). You can adjust this by either getting a trailer hitch with the proper amount of height (or drop) or getting an adjustable hitch that does the same thing. The only time I lift my engine is when I'm launching or retrieving my boat or when it's in a slip for an extended period of time. (like overnight or longer). Once I have my boat on it's trailer I lower the engine back down. I've never once broken a skeg or nicked a prop while trailering my boat.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#3
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is the by pass screw on the side closed t5ight
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#4
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So I called the local repair shop and they have the relays in stock. I'll swing by tomorrow after work and see if that doesn't solve my problem. I would have gone earlier in the week but the weather hasn't been cooperative. If not I guess I'll have to try your advice Destroyer. By the was it's a 2000 Evinrude Ocean Pro 200 hp. And yes, I did retighten the manual release screw.
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#5
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Tried lightly tapping it with a hammer?
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#6
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So I finally got the trim relays I needed and the weather is cooperating. The good news is it got the motor moving. The bad news is it's only moving a few inches before stopping. I can hear what sounds like a bubbling noise when I hit the up or down button. After watching a dozen YouTube videos I'm fairly certain I bled the air properly. Are there any seals or gaskets I should be inspecting to see if they have failed? I've never owned a boat with power trim before so this is uncharted territory for me. I'm really hoping I don't need to replace the whole assembly. Also, the motor is a 1994, not 2000 as I previously stated. Not sure where that came from...
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#7
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On my 98 I had the same issue. It turned out to be a bad wire on the limit switch. I replaced the section and it works.
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1999 Wellcraft 22WA-200 Ocean Runner 1982 Grady White Tarpon 190-110 Evinrude-Sold 1996 Striper 2100WA-RIP Sandy 1989 Wellcraft 18-Sport-125 Force-sold |
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