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#1
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Well, I dropped the boat in the H2O this morning to make sure everything was in working order for our annual lighted flotilla in Wrightsville Beach, and I noticed the steering was a little sticky. So I grabbed the grease gun and did the normal routine. Well, during the course of steering back and forth (at the dock) the wheel snapped over suddenly. It caught again, but the engine only turns to port now. It will steer back to just past center, but I don't trust the wheel. I haven't taken it apart, but I'm sure it's the wheel that's the problem. The shaft that I can see is rusted, and it actually moves now, not just right to left, but up and down and side to side. What a great time for a steering problem!! Anybody run a new cable for a CC V20? I've done it on smaller boats, but I figured if I'm replacing the wheel set-up I might as well replace the cable too. Happy Thanksgiving.
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Captain Jon |
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#2
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Well that really sucks!! I put all new steering in my V but it was a cuddy, and just runs under the gunles, Also mine was on a bracket, I mention this as most I have spoke with say they have to unbolt the motor and move to one side or remove motor to get the cable out, there is not enough room other wise.
Good Luck!
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#3
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Well, the steering cable is fine, it's the cylinder that the engine sits on that is stiff. My mech. said I need a new helm ($50-$60) but that would only work as long as I can get the engine turnning free again. With the cable un-hooked, it takes a LOT of muscle to turn the engine. I've loaded it up with grease and have been spraying penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the tube, per my mech's opinion, in hopes to get it freed up at least a little. The second option for fixing it would be to install a hydraulic system ($1000-$1500) that would overcome the stiffness in the tube. One problem with that is....... NO MONEY!!!!!!!!!! I'll be taking donations all weekend if anyone is feeling generous. :)
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Captain Jon |
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#4
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Do you have a grease fitting on the steering tilt tube? Also make sure yet get all the fittings on the motor that grease the pivot point. There are a bunch on my johnson that I missed the first go around as I needed to push the motor back and forth to see them all. As far as the hydraulic goes, you can get a system setup for a lot less than a grand, more like 500-700 if you search around. Might be worth the investment.
-Svence
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1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 |
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#5
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You are going to gave to get that cable out! Then you can use a shot gun cleaner to clean the tube. I had to do this before, the tube is rotting from the inside out and the rust is mixing with the grease and causing it to bind.
They also have a oiling system instead of grease, I am sure this is much better, as greas atracts dirt and makes for problems. You better get to it soon! In the winter when I use to have that issue, I would pull the cable in the fall clean it and bag it, in the spring I would clean the tube and reassemble, always avoiding this, I had one problem I wasn't going to let it happen again!!
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#6
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BC, is it the steering pivot that is the problem or is it what MJ is talking about, the cable binding in the tilt tube?
I'm reading you to be talking about the steering pivot. What kind of motor are we talking about? I don't think these things get better without digging into them and it's usually a big job. I've got my Yamaha in pieces and since I have gone his far I am gong to take apart the pivot an replace the nylon bushings as a precaution. Whatever the case good luck with it. |
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