water in the oil

garagenc · #1 12-03-2006, 09:48 PM

I have a 91 V-20 with a Volvo Penta Engine (501L chevy) and 290 DP outdrive.
I started getting water in the last 2 cyl on each side. I replaced both heads, both risers which helped but I had water in the oil, oil was extreme white on heads (rocker arm area) inside of both vlv covers was white. I found that my stbd side riser was "cannot touch" hot but port side cool. I replaced stbd exh manifold. I cleaned/wiped the white foam from the heads and vlv covers and replaced oil and filter. Took it back out and stbd side riser cool as one on port. I came in and pulled dipstick and had water in oil again.

I'm replacing port side exh manifold this week, but my question is do you guys think the port side exh manifold leaking back into the eng (the eng runs fine,) no plugs miss firing.

Could this last oil change with water in it be left over from oil/foam residue from last time? I also get white smoke out of my rubber hoses on vlv covers, is this the burn-off of condensation from the water in the oil? I drained the oil with a pump, can't get to the oil pan plug. If so how many oil changes will it take to get the oil back to normal color. Is there any way to check for a internal crack in the water passages that could be dumping water into the oil pan. I bought the boat from original owner and he took very good care of it with the dealer. I use it in brackish water and when I go to the ocean I bring it back home and flush.

Does anyone have any suggestions or reccomendations??

Skools Out · #2 12-03-2006, 10:14 PM

do a compression test to see if you have a hole rusted thru a cylinder some where or you may have a water jacket rusted thru in the block to the oil passages. sounds bad. oil and water make instant sand paper on cam and crank bearings. one way to flush all water out is remove all the plugs so it can't crank and drain the oil fill the block with diesel fuel in place of oil then turn it over with the starter a little till the fuel has flushed all the oil passages out in the block then drain and refill with good little thicker oil due to left over diesel will thin the oil.

macojoe · #3 12-03-2006, 11:29 PM

Same boat different motor, When I bought mine I had a head rusted threw and was getting water on the #1 cylinder

Had to replace head, and flush the motor much like skools said!

But I could get to the drain plug on the oil pan, I hate them pumps, they can never get everything!

Good Luck!! as this was the beginning of the end for my motor! Replaced Head, manifold, risers, belows, ect ect ect..

This is why I am now converted to a bracket and outboard!

TheTinMan · #4 12-03-2006, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macojoe

This is why I am now converted to a bracket and outboard!

OB's, I/O's....don't matter, you go through em like sh!t thru a goose!
;D ;D

spareparts · #5 12-04-2006, 01:12 AM

could very well be the manifold, go ahead and replace it( allways replace risers and manifolds together on both sides on a raw water cooled enginewhen you have one fail, the others are not far behind), while you have the hoses off, block them off or hook them back to the thermostat housing to block of any way the water can exit the block, tehn hook a garden hose to the water inlet, you can get more pressure with a garden hose than you will ever get by running the engine, check the oil level, if you have a leak it will rise, pull the oil fill crack and listen, you will here a hissing noise, pull the plugs out and spin the engine over, look for water coming out of the sparkplug holes, if not your OK, put the engine bakc together.. Carry the boat out and run it on teh water, you will get the oil temp above 215 degress to steam the moisture out of the engine. Watch the oil pressure, if it get real high, you still may have a problem with water getting in the oil, by the way, does the engnine have an oil cooler? It may be getting water in thru there.

76GMC1500 · #6 12-04-2006, 01:27 AM

Before you replace the manifold, pressure test it by making a plate to cover the water outlet, plugging the rear water inlet hole, and inserting an air fitting in the front. I think the pressure test is supposed to be performed at 40 psi, that seems a little high and my memory is sometimes wrong. You should know if you have a problem by 20 psi.

msbhammer · #7 12-04-2006, 02:54 AM

You guys seem to know what you are talking about. Its an interesting topic to me. I cant figure why I/O's blow motors so easy or crack the blocks. To me, these are nothing more then car engines in a boat. Instead of antifreeze they use fresh water to cool the engine.
Does the salt water really eat the insides of a motor that bad ?? :-/

Seacrets · #8 12-04-2006, 10:15 AM

Salt water will really take it's toll on a marine engine. Due to low use, condensation in the oil will also screw up a boat engine. Flushing with fresh water and getting the engine up to temp will definately help.

spareparts · #9 12-04-2006, 11:16 AM

salt will attack anything!!! Not just I/O's. I worked on fresh water engines for 14 years, thought I knew saltwater motors from the trailered ones I serviced. I moved to salt 8 years ago and started my reeducation. Outboards screw up also, most reecently I've had nore problems with Yamaha's with corrosion( goes against public opinion). The biggest difference is that most poeple will do a "four bolt tune up"( replace an outboard) while the I/O people stick with what they have and try to keep it going. just check and see how few people have the original outboards on their older boats vs how many people still have their original I/O. In salt water, a trailerd boat that gets flushed needs the manifolds and risers replaced every 5 year depending on where the boat is used( ones that stay in the water and less likely to get flushed need them every 3 years). Also because the engine is cooled by raw water, the possibility of freezing in cold weather is possible, it will crack the block if it is not properlly winterized. You will rarely see an I/O engine blown up, usually it will have corrosion related issues kill it before they blow, I've seen several that have well over 2000 hours, but they have been maintained properlly, and they don't sit long. BTW, I highly recomend closed cooling for any inboard or I/O engine

macojoe · #10 12-04-2006, 11:46 AM

Everyone has there preference!!

I/O will last, but at a huge maintain cost!! and smaller cost to repower

O/B will last a long time with little maintain, and large repower cost!

In the end its even in my book!

But with one difference, I am in the water longer with no issues like a O/B and when it comes to repower time there are only 6 bolts to new motor!!

And thats why I choose to go O/B