Repowering

[garagenc]

I'm repowering my 91 V-20 I/O. I have the motor out and the upper portion of the 290 outdrive off, trim tabs off. I'm replacing the outdrive water hose, helmet bushing (has anyone replaced that and if so tell me how they did it). Would anyone like me to take pics and provide status on work? I've already done some work:

I had a rotten port aft stringer (mtr mount) so I cut the top of the gel coat out and (left sides) and dug out the rotten wood. I poured resin and laid 4 layers of glass on the remaining good wood and then placed a board (fir) insert on top of the glass and then poured resin and stuffed glass on each side and end and then laid glass on top until it was even with the existing sides of glass. I laid a trash bag on top and cut a board that was the same length and width as the insert and set that and a 30lb weight on it and left it for 3 days. I didn't use as much hardner as reccomended so it wouldn't hard to fast and get brittle.

I just have to mix up some white gelcoat and pour on top to match and that should finish that project.

If anyone would like pics and job status let me know and I'll start posting.

[Blue_Runner]

Post it up! Sounds pretty cool ;)

[msbhammer]

Hell ya, Post some Pics. Cant wait for Mulv to post pics of his old V that he promised to post for Us. ;D ;D

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by garagenc

I'm repowering my 91 V-20 I/O. I have the motor out and the upper portion of the 290 outdrive off, trim tabs off. I'm replacing the outdrive water hose, helmet bushing (has anyone replaced that and if so tell me how they did it). Would anyone like me to take pics and provide status on work? I've already done some work:

I had a rotten port aft stringer (mtr mount) so I cut the top of the gel coat out and (left sides) and dug out the rotten wood. I poured resin and laid 4 layers of glass on the remaining good wood and then placed a board (fir) insert on top of the glass and then poured resin and stuffed glass on each side and end and then laid glass on top until it was even with the existing sides of glass. I laid a trash bag on top and cut a board that was the same length and width as the insert and set that and a 30lb weight on it and left it for 3 days. I didn't use as much hardner as reccomended so it wouldn't hard to fast and get brittle.

I just have to mix up some white gelcoat and pour on top to match and that should finish that project.

If anyone would like pics and job status let me know and I'll start posting.

Where's them pics, garagenc??... ;D ...

[garagenc]

Had to learn how to dwnld pics, so lets try them out.


this is the open hole that makes us I/O owners feel sick in our stomach because we've lost something.


port stringer that had rot but now replaced, just need to add the white gelcoat



shot of the transome after everything has been removed.


dowel plug installed where all the transducer lines exited. Soon to be filled with glass and resin.




steering/helmut area prior to upr&lwr bushings remvd.



helmut rmvd and lower bushing left in place to show rmvl



helmut rmvd


raw water vlv soon to be remvd and new home of thru hull transducer.


dash rmvd during rmvl of old fishfinder and prior to new fishfinder.


I'm the proud new papa of this furuno LS6100



cutting board on dash, another to be installed so gps and fishfinder have a place to sit.

Other photos to be installed later as soon as other work is accomplished.

[Airslot]

Nice pics. There are alot of bad places for 'ducers on these boats and only few good ones. Lots of lifting strakes limit our choices. There are a couple strakes approx 10" off centerline that end about midships that will cause transducer problems. I'm not sure where your thru-hull is, but keep that in mind. Are you installing the newish tilted element from Airmar? If so let me know how it works because I'd love to put one in, just nervous about finding the best spot.

Airslot

[garagenc]

I haven't exactly measured where the hole is, but I'll measure and let you know. I think it is only about 6-10" off centerline. That open drain you see to the left in that pic is the centerline drain.

It sounds as if you've had some or your friends have tried this already with little success.

I was planning on buying the fairing block and then cutting to fit hull, I was wondering if I should install with curvature of the hull or make it level to a horizontial line (ground).


Let me know what experience you already have so I won't make the same mistake.

thanks

[reelapeelin]

Great pics and a LOT of work!!... ;) ...


...about that thru-hull...keep us posted on that...looks really interesting... 8) ...my only concern is yer gonna install it over a repair, if I understand right...I've never done one, but I hope that doesn't create problems for you... :) ...CB has done 'em w / much success...I think the ''ducer'' has to shoot straight down ...


...Furuno looks like a really NICE unit 8) ...

[Airslot]

Couple things to ponder. Generally you can't put a thru-hull too close to engine. Disturbs water flow for cooling and prop. If you go with the new tilted element through hull you might pull it off because it only projects like 3/8" below hull. If your talking a bigger thru-hull w/ fairing block, no way that close to engine. At this point we still need to consider the strakes in the hull. I know that where I have my ducer it works, but could work better. I think mine is too close to one of the "flats" or steps.

What model 'ducer would you like to use with that Furuno 600L? I have the same sounder using the P-66 transom mount. I also have the P-79 mounted in the hull, but it doesn't work all that well.

Airslot

[garagenc]

I'm planning on using the 525T-BSD ducer. This hole sits approx 6"-8" fwd of the fwd end of the motor. I don't think this will cause a problem for water flow.

But it sounds like you have more exp with this than me. I haven't seen the tilted one you described.