Just ripped the floor up.

Vic · #1 02-12-2005, 09:08 PM

Bit the bullet today and cut the floor up. :P The stringers and the ribs are all gone. So I cut the tops off of all of it with a recepricating saw. Dug out all the old wood. Why would anybody build a boat with a fishbox under a deck that drains to a sealed compartment. just like the fuel tank compartment. Getting ready for the seacast, everywhere. then 2# por foam in all compartments. Wish I could get these pictures to paste on here.

Mac_Attack · #2 02-12-2005, 09:25 PM

MJ tell him how to paste photos your the best!!! *Bill Mc ;D *Please?

#3 02-14-2005, 04:49 PM

WOW ... SOUNDS LIKE THE VOLUME OF ROTTED WOOD HAS MULTIPLIED. :(

Vic - how many cubic inches of rotten wood do you plan on replacing with seacast??

And how much will that amount of seacast cost??

Vic · #4 02-14-2005, 09:56 PM

I figured 3000 cubic inches. Thats three 5 gallon pails. They said 1000 ci per 5gallon kit. Three will be about $550.00. Plus some woven roven, mekp, resin. I really wanted to do the pour foam in all the cavities, but I gotta have fishin money. She will be solid though.

macojoe · #5 02-14-2005, 11:16 PM

Vic if you want you can email me the pic's and I will post! [email protected]

Also I did a how to post pic thing in the how to section
Check it out and you to will be able to post!!

Vic · #6 02-14-2005, 11:28 PM

Thanks MJ, When we mix up the seacast stuff I gonna take abunch of new ones showing us doing it. That should be very good for a lot of people too see. Already got three guys who want to help with the pour. One of them is a local V20 owner. I should have that stuff begining of next week. We are planning to pour the following weekend. weather permiting. This guy has a great idea for a freshwater washdown system that will hold about 7 gallons below deck. built from 4" pvc pipe. He's an Irigation guy and did it to his boat. I cant wait.

#7 02-15-2005, 04:36 PM

VIC - just saw the pics and it looks like you are doin a right thorough job. :) While you are waiting for the seacast to arrive you should use the time to make sure you get as much of the wood out as you can - because the seacast will not bond to wood. Maybe use a long sawzall blade to scrape the insides of the glass - just be carefull you don't poke a hole thru the bottom. The cleaner the glass surfaces are - the better your seacast bond will be. Think of it like it was under a magnifying glass. When you are satisfied that the wood is gone - clean the surfaces with rags wet with acetone.

reelapeelin · #8 02-16-2005, 09:50 AM

Keep us posted on the fresh-water wash-down...sounds good :D...

#9 02-16-2005, 10:06 PM

Hey Vic, I was thinkin about your project and I was wonderin how your hull is gonna be supported when you pour the seacast??

Now that you have gutted the bulkheads and stringers, and removed the floor, the hull is able to bend and flex.
For instance, if your hull is sitting on a roller trailer, there is likely to be be an impression or bend where the rollers are contacting the hull.

Whatever shape the hull has assumed, that shape will become permanent once the seacast is set.

I would think the very best way to preserve the proper hull shape would be to remove the engine, and float the boat in calm water for your seacast pour.

What do you think??

Vic · #10 02-17-2005, 08:11 PM

Sk, I have thought about that and we have been checking the hull by trying to flex it and cant get it to move more than an eigth of an inch. Thats with 270lbs on each side. doesnt seem like much movement. My trailer has 4 carpeted bunks that I made last year, out of 8/4 cypress, 2 on the stringers and two short ones on the outside chines back at the transom. I do plan to brace up the sides at the bulk head for good measure.