Foredeck Teak Strips

fillet1 · #1 04-06-2005, 11:56 AM

I finally have gotten to A/B the teak on the fordeck, and I now realize that the $#%$#% bolts holding it down are loose, and water seeps into the cabin, and I'm sure, soaks the plywood in the fordeck. Its a two man job to tighten em up. Does anybody have a bead of caulk around the entire strip to keep water from getting underneath? Hows it work?

macojoe · #2 04-06-2005, 12:32 PM

Me too!! I am changing mine next week. I am using 3/4 Starboard and they will have a full coat of 5200 under it to A, Stop the water, B. To keep the dirt, leafs and crap that gets under them.

I will not have any wood at all above deck at the end of this season!!

fillet1 · #3 04-06-2005, 12:54 PM

MJ-

I guess you will have to buy a whole sheet of starboard to get the length you need? If i could buy pre-cut strips I would do it.

You will have to put those drain holes in the strips near the windshield?

macojoe · #4 04-06-2005, 02:04 PM

I bought 2 hole sheets!! ;D one 3/4 and one 3/8 I have pleanty!!
yea may need a hole or two?? we will see.

cliffpaul2 · #5 04-06-2005, 09:42 PM

I just redid mine and reinstalled them with a bead of 3M marine grade "underwater" caulk along the length of each board. The problem I have now is that the sliding hatch lid is glued down on one side because some of the caulk was pressed out the inside. I can't get it loose. I even tried lifting the teak, but it's cemented to the boat. Any ideas on how to get it up without cracking the wood or the fiberglass? ???

macojoe · #6 04-06-2005, 10:11 PM

Run a razor along the wood and cover then lift up on the lose side and try to do the same on the inside, That should relese it anough to get it off.

when pulling up on it try to lift from back to front not side to side!!

I guess you learned a lesson!! wait till all is dry before putting it back toghter!!

They also sell a relese for 5200 that will losen the calking after curing. But then you might have to redo the teak sealant alos??

JohnD · #7 04-07-2005, 12:04 AM

MJ and all,

The 5200, is the next best thing to epoxy for bedding, but if I don't miss my guess 5200 isn't UV resistant.

So make sure you wipe off any extra and then run a bead of 4200 (I think, its the one which states UV resistant caulk) or any other UV resistant caulk.

I used some boat-life caulk on my floor 2 years ago and it's yellowed big time. I didn't make sure it was UV resistant. No big deal since I had to have the floor out for another project anyway.

br,
John

reelapeelin · #8 04-07-2005, 03:49 PM

CP2...if in the process of gettin' that loose you break the slides that are attached to the hatch, don''t fret...I remade mine from the C-channel used for trimming vinyl-sideing on houses...cut away one side of the C and lip on other side, leaves an "L" shape...reattach one side of the L back to the lid and you're good to go...did mine 2-3 yrs ago...trouble-free since... ;D...

fillet1 · #9 04-07-2005, 05:02 PM

MJ-

Are you cutting the strips on a table saw? Wanna make me a set for a handsome fee?? ;D ;D ;D ;D

macojoe · #10 04-07-2005, 10:19 PM

That might be arranged??

Yes I am going to run them thur a table saw!!

Do you just want me to cut you the strips and you do the finish work?
Or do you want me to do them all the way??

I have taken mine off but I have not measured them yet. And I do not have the holes in mine for the water, But I am going to make some.
I guess they came out with the holes in the newer models. Mine is 1975

Let me no what they are worth to you + shipping.