Re: Bracket Buying
Bygracelaone:
I purchased the R0 model. My transom had been reworked prior to my purchasing the boat and I found it to be built at a 13 degree angle (When talking with D&D that seems to be a common transom angle). My transom also had a slight bend from port to starboard, and I was worried that I would have to have the bracket built to accommodate this curve. D&D advised me not to worry about it because when you tighten up the mounting bolts it straightens out any slight curve that might have been there prior and they were right!
A word of caution on mounting the bracket though. I followed D&D recommend motor elevation for a 26” setback bracket ( 2.5 -3 above the keel“) and found my motor cavitated way too much when on plane. I ended up lowering the bracket so that the engine cavitation plate was only about 1 inch higher than the keel line and this seems to work well for my configuration. Don't forget I have an old 235 that is quite heavy and that maybe why I had an issue with the settings they recommended initially, so keep that in mind. Also recommend you only to mount a 25 inch motor. My motor was initially a 20 shaft, but the backwash from the boats wake came to close to swamping the engine when I came off plane that I ended up buying a 5 inch lower unit extension to raise the motor to a point I now feel comfortable.
Suggest you mount the motor to the bracket so that is evaluated by one hole in the engine transom clamp (top of motor clamp will not rest on top of the bracket) just in case you need to lower the motor later. This way you have some adjust in motor position that won’t require you to cavitates to much.
Hope this helps. If you need any pictures to help explain what I referring to let me know.
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74 V20 CC with a 150 Johnson (Gone but not forgotten)
89 V20 Cutty with a Tower (Build in process)
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