Hatch cover replacement/reglass finished

[steelheader13]

Thanks for all that sent me some help. *Project was not real easy, as I did not have the right tools for the job. *You really do need a grinder of some type for this type of reglass work. *This is the first time I have ever tried it also and I have an all new respect for people in the boat glass trade and even body shop guys. *

I got busy at my real job and was sidetracked, but finally finished.

Thanks to Franco for giving me the ambition and confidence to Get-R-Done. And Clamc for stopping by for his expert advice and final push which gave me a second wind at the end.

Here are some pics of project. *Hatches are now the toughest part of my boat and am confident that an elephant (okay maybe a baby elephant) could stand on these hatches with no damage.

Was quoted $600-800 for this repair, I did it all for $110-$120 + time. *

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/21yearsold.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/wetwoodisnogood.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/badsituation.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/ANGLEGRINDING.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/workable.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/READYTOREGLASS.jpg

Cleaning up with mineral spirits.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/lookingbetter.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/newwood.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/firstlayeron.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/FIRSTLAYER.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/nobubbles.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/HATCHNEW.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v330/steelheader13/HATCH2.jpg


Thanks again. Steel

[TheTinMan]

Great job and write up!

[Mac_Attack]

Very nice job! Bill Mc ;D

[reelapeelin]

WOW...what a nice job...thanks for takin' us along for the ride ;) ...good work... 8)...

[msbhammer]

Ok, Now you know what to do. COME AND DO MIND !! ;D

[Franco]

Nice Job Bud!!!

[shicks007]

Steel,

That came out very nice, looks factory.

[macojoe]

Nice Job!!

[willy]

Thats my winter project, they probably could go a little longer but have a definet softness that I want to eliminate, nice job and great pics appreciate it will help this winter ;)

[Pipe_Dream]

Hat's off to you, looks like a job well done, and one that will outlast most of us! ;D

[WiseGuy]

FANTASTIC !! Thanks for the photos. You did a great job.

[Franco]

HEY STEEL LETS GO FOR SOME MAHI MAHI

[steelheader13]

Check your pm box.

I am up for it this Sat/Sun. if weather looks good.

I may also have some family obligations, but will no more later on.

Which day is best for you?

[Franco]

Saturday is good, also thinking about a little night fishing friday nite!!!

[ericdaniels]

Great job! I have a 1987 V20 cc and all the hatches are sagging a little bit too. If you don't mind can you let me know what all the materials you used to do the job.

[macojoe]

You can get cheap grinders at
http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=grinders&Submit=Go

They are good if you only going to use from time to time. I have had one like this for 5 years now and has been fine,.

If I needed one for everyday use I would buy a real good one, But for twice a year this is just fine!! And always handy!!

[Blue_Runner]

One thing I didn't understand about the hatch replacement - the part in the middle where it says, "New wood just before I gooped all sides with resin without hardener to soak in".

My question is, why no hardener? At what point was the hardener applied? I didn't understand that part. Any ideas? ???

[macojoe]

The resin will soak in the wood stoping it from absorbing anythuing else, when you add glass and hardner it will harden the out side reel nice!!

If you were to add the hardner it would get hard before it ever had a chance to soak in.

[76GMC1500]

Don't buy cheap grinders, put the $100 down and get one of the Milwaukee long trigger grinders. It's one of the most useful tools in my garage and has especially proven its worth when it comes to rusty trailer hardware. An 8.5 amp 4.5" grinder has power to spare.

[parishht]

I bought one of those cheap griders at Harbor Freight.
I am extremely pleased with it.
I had to do some plumbing work that included cutting cast iron drain pie.
No trouble at all, I even splashed wtaer on the thing,
let it dry, no problem.
Same with drills, I spent lots of money on battery drills,
they keep losing power at the wrong times.
I went to Wally World and bought a $20 plug in,
now that is the only drill I use, I just have to bring extension cords,
But many times I thought I burned it up, only to have it be like a timex.

There are exceptions that I will spend a lot of money,
but for tools that take a beating, I'm sold on the throw away's that don't ever seam to die.

[76GMC1500]

The $20 drills are nice until you need to chuck a 1/2" bit. I personally use a Milwaukee Magnum drill with a keyed chuck. This drill is built to last many lifetimes. It also has torque to break your wrist. The 1/2 inch drills are geared for torque, 850 rpm, so smaller holes take a little longer to drill. The price was a little high at $130 but it's money well spent.

[Skools Out]

i like the Milwaukee 24v Hamer drill with keyless 1/2 chuck. that's a true work horse drill. but high as well at $430

[parishht]

For big jobs like those, I have a drill that was made in the 1950's.
I picked it up at a public auction for $5.00.
Like I said, I am all about cheeap tools.
After all, if I spent over $100 for a drill,
I would be afraid to use it, as I beat the pi$$ out of em.

Same as buying my vehicles, the wife gets the new vehicle, I get used trucks, that way I don't have to worry about
hauling cement, or banging 2X's into the side, or loading it up with mulch,
or pulling stumps, etc.