Trailer Mods

[turbinedoctor]

Just started the winter time mods I have been planning for the V. First is replace the springs and bolts. I got the springs removed and the axle out from under it. While I got the axle out I am going to strip off the rust and treat with rust stopper and paint with rust o leum.

Taking lots of pictures but to tired to post any now. Will keep you up dated and post pics later.

While Im at it I will check the bearings and grease them. What type of grease should I use. I have bearing buddies and need a grease to use in a grease gun. Any suggestions. ???

[Blue_Runner]

Been there done that...no power tools....old trailer....frozen bolts....my body still aches (2 years later). ;D

[Airslot]

Turbo, other may dissagree, but when repacking bearings I have gotten away from the Lubrimatic Marine grease. I've been using the Wolfshead red grease. Same grease comes in tubs and tubs. It's heat tolerant for disk brakes and I believe it claims to be waterproof. Pick it up a Gibbons for 2/3 bucks a pop.

Airslot

[Skools Out]

in stead of rust olem go to an automotive paint supply store and buy rust stopper that you brush on it will stop all rust and water tite plus seal up.

http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCart/pc/mainIndex.asp

[phatdaddy]

ditto on what skools said. I use trailerkote (made by Pettit Paint) from west marine and have had very good results with it. It seems to have a watertite rust inhibitor property to it that is better than regular enamel. I used to do that and then coat with spray cosmoline(sp?) called linebacker. I found that the coating was ok for a while, but when it broke down, it would trap salt water against the metal. I always wanted to try "rhino-lining" an axle to see if that would stop rust.

[macojoe]

I use water proof grease for no other reason then thats what I have always used.
I know a few that use the red high heat like mentioned above.

Not all grease mix with each other!! So start with one and stay with it.

I have painted a trailer before and it lasted pretty good, but you are always going to have to stay on it!

As for the bearings, get your self one of theses!! I redo mine every year!! I clean well to get all grease out then repack in seconds!~

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-Handy-Packer-Bearing-Packer_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ006QQi temZ160068954854QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotoh osting

What do you have for springs?? eye to eye or slippers?? I have a brand new set for a 4000# trailer here, the good thing about them is they are Mono, meaning it is one leaf! No more squeaking rusty noisy springs!!

I bought 7 years ago for my single axle and they worked great!! But the co. messed up and sent me two pairs instead of two springs!

But they were eye to eye and I wanted slippers, so wht I had a friend do, is heat up the eye, and bend it stright out, now I had a slipper and it was great for 4 years till i sold the trailer.

There yours for the price of shipping. If you needs eye to eye I will have to measure how long they are.

[turbinedoctor]

MJ I use the C hook springs, and I already have new ones. Thanks for the offer.

I have already stripped the rust and sprayed with Rust Converter which turns black when it hits rust. I feel pretty good about the rust but want to put a coating over it to keep out the saltwater.

Will try to post pics tomorrow while at work, Im at work now but so is the BOSS. ;)

Still looking into the grease.

Thanks for all your input. :D

[turbinedoctor]

I've been having trouble uploading more then one picture at a time, Maybe MJ can look into this for me. As of now I have a few pictures to post.

First I jacked the trailer up and secured with jack stands and removed the wheel wells



http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0282.sized.jpg


Looks like the wheel wells will need some attention too.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0280.sized.jpg

Second I removed the wheels and replaced the bolts that hold the spring mounting plate. Stainless ;D

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0286.sized.jpg

This little grinder and cutoff wheels make it easy work. ;)

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0285.sized.jpg

Now its time for a beer. Sure bet Air Slot would like one. ;D

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0281.sized.jpg


That beer hit the spot. Now it's time to remove the U bolts that hold the springs to the axle. Where did I leave that grinder ???

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0287.sized.jpg


Thats all the pics I have uploaded for now. I will start working on that next. Stay tuned for more updates. :D

[Airslot]

Looks like Turbo stopped for another beer, and your right, I'd a had one with ya.
;D
Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Now that I have the sausage and eggs in me and some more pics uploaded I will bring you up to speed with where I'm at.

With the spring / axle bolts cut and removed I dropped the spring and supported the axle with the jack.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0288.sized.jpg

I was hoping that the spacer between the spring and the axle would come off for cleaning but it is welded. Will have to clean with it attached. :(

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0289.sized.jpg

Here is a pretty ugly spring. I was getting worried when ever I towed it to the ramp.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0290.sized.jpg

With springs removed, bolts replaced and the axle supported, I moved to the other side and did the same thing.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0291.sized.jpg

Make sure you use anti-sieze when using stainless bolts. This stuff is expensive but well worth it.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0292.sized.jpg

Now with the port side springs removed and axle out from under the boat, I replace these bolts too.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0293.sized.jpg

After sweeping up my mess and putting some tools away, it's time to look at the axle.
looks like it needs the rust stripped and a coat of rust converter.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0294.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0295.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0296.sized.jpg

Time for another beer. Be back in a minute. ;D

[turbinedoctor]

Looks like Turbo stopped for another beer, and your right, I'd a had one with ya.
;D
Airslot

Well, Air theres more work to do and more beer to drink. ;D

[Airslot]

Lookin good Turbo. Time to chuck a wire brush in the grinder and get to work bud. ;D

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

It took some time but I cleaned up the axle / spring spacers and sprayed with the rust converter. You can see how the rust converter turned black when it reacts to rust.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0298.sized.jpg

With both ends cleaned and sprayed, it's time to strip the rust from the axle.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0300.sized.jpg

Bought this new wire brush for the grinder with hopes it will do a good job. When I got home I found our the Max RPM's for the brush is 8,000 and the grinder no load RPM's is 11,000. :( Oh well, lets see if it will work. Kids done try this at home, I am a trained Do it Yourselfer and limited on places near by to get the right brush.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0302.sized.jpg

This photo does not do justice to how well the brush works. Just to let you know, the brush fans out pretty good at high RPM's and I only had to pull two wires out of my leg. :)

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0301.sized.jpg

Now with the rust stripped I sprayed it with the Rust Converter.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0304.sized.jpg

I will wait 24 hours for that to dry and give it a coat of paint.


Here is a photo that really worried me about the condition of the Springs. :o Look at these nuts, I guess this is what happens when you get old. ;D

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0303.sized.jpg

[Airslot]

Turbo, you are doing some pretty work there bud. Only issue I have, it's obvious to me that you didn't use any of the never seez that you talked about. ;) If you had used it there would be finger prints everywhere and smudge marks on your pics. We all know you had that can out for show. ;D Heck, there weren't any marks on the can either. I say no way Turbo used it. ;D

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Your very right about one thing there Air, a little bit makes a big mess. But from years of experience and lots of hand cleaner I have learned to tame the beast. ;D

Here's a tip for ya, if you have a bolt that is is seized but will move in and out just a little, mix some Never Seez with some WD-40 or equivlent, and apply to bolt and work it back and forth to let it get into the threads. Worked for me in the past. *Lapping compound will work too but most people don't have it around.

Also if you have a nut to remove and have some threads showing, clean the threads and apply Never Seez and then remove the nut. The Never Seez will lube the threads and make it a lot easier.

One more trick I learned is to apply Never Seez to the threads of outdoor light bulbs and those Mercury vapor, High pressure Sodium or any light that gets really hot but lasts a long time. This will make them a lot easier to remove two years down the road. If you have ever tried to remove a Mercury vapor bulb that has been in service for three years, you will appreaciate this tip. I have had several, that where still energized, break in my hand while tring to remove them. Not to mention standing on the top rung of a 12 foot ladder.

Never Seez has a lot of Nickel and copper in it and it help to make a better connection. ;)

There are many uses for it. This stuff Never Seezes to amaze me. ;D

[macojoe]

Your doing a great job!!

But!! see there is always a But!

First off, I have used the rust converter before many times, with mixed results and I will tell you what you did wrong since I have figured it out.
Its made to covert rust, after you wire brush it there is no rust and you are just using it like a primer, and it doesn't do a good job of it!
I found it is best to get the real scale off and not try to get to clean metal.

The other thing is I also use anti seez, But somethings are better off with out it!

Stainless would rust there for you no need it. And with all the banging and vibration from the road them bolts will loosen up faster the a drunken bar made!

All my new trailer hardware (yes I have done all that you are doing twice) was SS with SS lock nuts (the kind with plastic insert) and even after 3 years of salt I was able to remove with out ever using anti seez.

Here is a tip for you guys on rusted bolts. And it works!!

Heat up your rusted bolt, then instead of spraying WD40 or something like that and watch it burn off, use a candle! Thats right a candle, the wax melts and the oil in the candle sinks into the rusted area with out burning off.

And your right!! When people buy a boat the first thing they should get is a grinder!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best tool ever!

Keep up the good work!

[turbinedoctor]

MJ: I am glad you think enough of me to honor me with your great and vast knowledge, BUT, there is all ways a but.

1) I did not strip it down to the bare metal, just knocked the rust off the rusty areas. There fore the rust converter is working like it should in the areas it should. The rest still has galvinize on it, with a coat of rust converter and paint. :P

2) I used the Never Seez as per the manufactures instructions. Stainless to Stainless can and most often will gall to itself, usually when tighting. If you get it to tighten then it will most likely come apart. I also have the locking nuts that you talk about and they are properly torqued to 2.5 grunts and three GEEZ's. And if there is one thing my wife has tought me in 16 years, it is to read the instructions. Stainless would rust there for you no need it. Its called Never Seez not Never Rust. I now see why they call you wind talker:P *:P

3) If I do like I am suppose to, and I probably wont, I will check bolt tightness after the first trip. :P :P :P

MJ Dont take this reply too harsh, I wasn't born perfect, it took the first two years of my life to acheive. ;D

[Airslot]

Ahhh, but a little shot of Nvr Sze keeps the stainless fastners from galling.

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Ahhh, but a little shot of Nvr Sze keeps the stainless fastners from galling.

Airslot

See thats what I'm talking about. Thanks Air ;D

[macojoe]

I am not taking anything harsh!! But were you brushed the axle looked to be all the way to metal, thats why I thought I would say something.

As far as Anti what ever you want to call it ;) I use almost every were!! spark plugs and all!
Just did not know if you were using nuts or locking nuts? I see you know what your doing so I will say no more. :-X

I sorry that I insulted your intelligent's :'( Please forgive me :-[

But one thing I will say is that on the springs you want to get some good grade 8 bolts made of steel!!
SS is nice but it is not as strong as steel and breaks much easier.
There is some big pressure on the spring bolts! ;)

[turbinedoctor]

Thanks for all your input MJ. I have the grade 8 bolts that they recommed for the springs. :D

Check your PM

[turbinedoctor]

Pulled the hubs off today and took them apart and inspected. Bearings look good but I mashed the seals getting the rear bearing out. Will get two new seals, grease and repack the bearings.

Cleaned the threads on the lugs and lug nuts. Got new cotter pins. Took bearing buddies apart and cleaned them too.

Man, I'm doing more then what I had planned but since I got the axle out I might as well go through all of it.

No pictures of the fore mentioned work since my hands where greasy, dont want to mess up the new camera I got for Christmas. :D

[macojoe]

No pictures of the fore mentioned work since my hands where greasy, dont want to mess up the new camera I got for Christmas. Cheesy

Man the keyboard must look real crapy!

[turbinedoctor]

Yeah but it's not my keyboard.

Every once in a while when looking at the GOOD MORNING thread the keys start to stick. ;D

[Airslot]

Turbo, if it'll make ya feel better, you can't remove the rear bearing without pulling the rear seal ;)

Airslot

[Airslot]

Turbo, I'm going to assume you know to seat the bearings by tightening the nut while spinning the hub? I was taught to crank it down darn tight while spinning the hub by hand. Then back off nut. Do not turn the hub at this point. Snug the nut back down and back off to first hole for cotter pin. Not sure why I typed all that since you already knew. ;)

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Thanks for the reminder, I knew it but had forget about it since it has been many years since I did any bearing work. I was taught to tighten nut till finger tight then turn to the next opening and pin it. Should be around 35 ftlbs. Thats how I used to do it, while turning the wheel.

[Airslot]

The method you described will work, but I'll bet that after 100 miles if you jack up one wheel you'll have more in /out play than you'd like.

Airslot

[LESTERUS]

TURBO:

BEING A BEARINGMAN I KNOW A LITTLE BOUT GREASE,
USE DOW CORNING BR2 PLUS, YOU CAN GO TO A MOTION INDUSTRIES OR APPLIED INDUSTRIAL (MY COMPETITORS) AND THEY CARRY IT, ALSO IF YOU'RE GOING TO BUY BEARINGS, TELL THEM TO ORDER "THE SET" WITH A LETTER "A" AT THE END (SPECIAL RUST PREVENTION TREATMENT FROM TIMKEN) NOT BY CONE AND CUP NUMBERS. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS SEND ME THE CONE AND CUP NUMBERS AND I'LL TELL YOU WHAT SET YOU NEED.

IF YOU INSTALL THOSE BEARINGS AND USE THAT GREASE, YOU'LL NEVE HAVE A PROBLEM AGAIN.

LESTERUS
BY

[Blue_Runner]

The method you described will work, but I'll bet that after 100 miles if you jack up one wheel you'll have more in /out play than you'd like.
No matter how you do it its not a bad idea to check them all and tighten if necessary after a time or two of pulling it (100 miles or whatever).

[LESTERUS]

BOSTICK ANTI-SEIZE IN COOPER OR NICKEL IS VERY GOOD, WE DID A TEST WITH A 3/4 INCH BOLT ONCE FOR BOSTICK, WE COATED JUST A LITTLE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOLT AND PUT A NUT, THEN WE HANGED THE BOLT AND NUT IN CONTACT WITH SALT WATER ONLY WHEN
HIGH TIDE, THAT WAY THE BOLT WAS UNDER WATER FOR A FEW HOURS AND OUT IN THE AIR FOR ANOTHER FEW HOURS (MAX RUST CONDITIONS) AFTER SIX MONTHS THE PART NOT COVERED WAS BEYOND RECOGNITION WHILE IN THE PART COATED YOU COULD TURN THE NUT BY HAND.

NOTE: DO NOT USE NEVER-SEEZ IN THE OUTDRIVE/PLATE BOLTS, YOU NEED CONDUCTIVITY THERE.

AS FOR YOUR HUBS, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF YOUR BEARINGS THERE ARE SOME GALVANIZED HUBS IN THE MARKET, SEALS BUY @ BEARINGBUDDY.COM

LESTERUS

[Airslot]

Lesterus, copper and nickel conduct electrons as well as any other metals? Bolts coated with anti-seize still conduct electricity.

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Thanks for all the input guys and keep it coming seeing as I am not done yet. I got the new seals today and will repack the bearings and install seals. Will try to get pictures this time.

Lesterus: as I mentioned earlier in this thread, Never Seez works good on electrical connections. I have used it on many light bulbs and connections that get washed down by Hot high pressure water every night.

[turbinedoctor]

Well tonight I got the inner bearings packed and the seals installed. Tomorrow when I get home I will finish cleaning the splindles, pack the outer bearings and install the hubs.

In advance I would like to appolgize for the blurry pictures. Did not know how bad they were till I loaded them on the computer.

Everything cleaned and ready for reassemble.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0314.sized.jpg

Outter bearing packed and inserted onto race.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0315.sized.jpg

Seal greased up and ready to be pressed in.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0316.sized.jpg

Not sure if this press has enough butt to do the job but we'll try any way. ;D

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0317.sized.jpg

There that should be enough pressure. ;D

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0319.sized.jpg

Yep, looks like it got it down flush. Now to clean splindle and pack outter bearings.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0322.sized.jpg

That all for now, Stay tuned for more updates.

[LESTERUS]

GUYS:

I KNOW THE PROPERTIES OF METALS, THAT'S WHY I'M AN ELECTRONIC ENGINEER, HOWEVER MERCRUISER MANUALS STATE NOT TO USE IT ON OUTDRIVE BOLTS OR IT WILL VOID THE WARRANTY, I'M SURE THE DO HAVE A REASON.

TURBO, WHEN I SUGGESTED THE USE OF BEARING BUDDY SEALS IS BECAUSE THEY HAVE, IN ADDITION OF THE SEAL, A STAINLESS STEEL SLEEVE FOR THE SHAFT SO THE SEAL WILL RIDE ON IT PLUS AN O'RING TO PREVENT WATER TO COME IN.

WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR TRAILER, FRICTION CREATES HIGH TEMP INSIDE THE HUB, WHEN YOU PUT THAT HUB INTO THE WATER SUDDEN COOLING CREATES VACUMM
AND WATER FINDS A WAY IN THRU THE LIP OF THE SEAL.

[macojoe]

Nice press!! My press is a block of wood and a 3 pound hammer!

[phatdaddy]

That's what Iwas thinking MJ, where do you get a 4 x4 with a gauge on it?

[76GMC1500]

I'm glad to see someone here likes anti-seize as much as I do. I used it on EVERYTHING. My projects usually go very smoothly as a result, no stuck bolts.

[turbinedoctor]

I'm glad to see someone here likes anti-seize as much as I do. *I used it on EVERYTHING. My projects usually go very smoothly as a result, no stuck bolts.


I usually get it on everything. ;D

[macojoe]

I usually get it on everything.



You have no choise!! You get that stuff on a finger or anything it goes on everything, every were!

[turbinedoctor]

Well I got the axle under the trailer and the springs installed. Going to start on wheel wells next.

Post pics later.

[turbinedoctor]

I got the underside of the wheel wells painted. Not going to worry about the outside or to good of a job on the underside. If they give me to much more trouble I will replace them with new ones.

Next I will start replacing the other U bolts on the frame.

Maybe later this winter or early spring I will get to replace the rollers. I read in an old thread that Air Slot did that and ran into some training opportunities. Any chance you will shed some light on that for me Air. ::)

Still no pics yet, I got them just been too busy to post them.

[Airslot]

Hmmmm, I may have to go look at some old posts, cause I can't seem to remember. What I do remember was the hog rings being fused into the aluminum roller frames and I had to drill them out.

Here's a tip for ya that works. When you replace those big washers, paint em with bearing grease each spring. They will help the rollers work more smoothly and last forever.

Airslot

[macojoe]

Fenders, just spry with undercoating!! Cheap, last forever ;)

I no like grease any were near the rollers!! Just some WD from time to time the grease attracts dirt like fly to fruit, make them rollers stick in no time!

[turbinedoctor]

I just talked to a guy who owns a new load rite trailer and found out that my *roller arms and supports are supose to tilt and swivel. Did that make any sense. Any how when my boat is off the trailer none of the roller arms or supports move. >:(



http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/Roller_arms.gif

[Airslot]

Yes, they are supposed to move, articulate, swivel, and follow the hull as it loads and unloads. Sometimes after years they stiffen up and don't move freely, like everything else dipped in saltwater.

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

I guess I am going to have to make a special trip to put the boat over and lube and free them up. Then replace the rollers.

[turbinedoctor]

OK here are the pictures I shorted you on.

One hub on. OK boy make sure it don't go anywhere.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0323.sized.jpg

Second hub on. A little chilly today but heater don't want to work. Need to replace the air pump.


http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0324.sized.jpg

Axle and springs installed.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0325.sized.jpg

Inside of wheel well painted.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0326.sized.jpg

Well now your up to date. Next I will install the wheel wells and the tires.

[turbinedoctor]

Got the wheel wells and tires on today and greased up the wench. The jack could use a little lube too.

Just a few more U bolts to replace and then the rollers.

[macojoe]

My Load-rite rollers swivel all over the place.

Boy I miss that old Blazer!!:'(

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_096.sized.jpg

My last trailer was also to move, but were froze like yours, but they were froze in perfect position, and I left it alone!

A friend of mine fixed his, and the only way is that you will have to get the boat off the trailer and get all the bolts out, clean and replace with SS and all will be good again.

Now there is a small problem here, SS is not as strong as steel, you should use grade 8 bolts here cause they take a lot of weight!
But if you use steel they will rust again and you will start to stiffen up.

My buddy used SS and in 4 years 2 bolts broke!! I would use Steel and keep well lubed!!

I don't like grease or never seize here because it attracts dirt and holds it, there for it will start binding.

Just rinse with freash water well and when you can just spray the crap out of them with a good oil!

[turbinedoctor]

MJ I am assuming you no longer have that trailer. I would like to see some close ups if you still have it, or from anybody else.

Looked at mine a little closer today and found they are more like sliders then rollers. :(

[macojoe]

The Load-Rite on the blazer is my brand new one!! You see the old under the V20 in the back ground.

They have plastic bushings on the screws.

[reelapeelin]

Great work, Turbo!!...any pics of finished insallation?...

...every now and then a thread comes along that's REALLY informative...this one gets an "A" ....IMHO of course... ;) ...

[turbinedoctor]

Thanks RAP. I will take some today with tires on and off the jack stands.

Looking into the roller situation and I am not liking what I am finding. My rollers are 4" wide and 4" tall, the shaft is 3/4" but it looks like the shaft length or the web of the rollers is only 1/2".

Most new rollers I am finding have a shaft length of 1 1/4" to 1 1/2". Where can I find one as narrow as what I have on there now.

Also it seems easier to find 5" tall and 3" wide rollers. The extra 1" higher doesn't bother me but the 1" narrower seems like I will be giving up valuable support surface. Any thoughts from you guys who have done this before.

[Airslot]

Turbo, take a peak here:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=5648&familyName=Boat+Trailer+W obble+Roller&history=ip9880zd%7Cother%7CfreeText%7 Ewobble%2Broller%5Eengine%7Eadwords%25216456%5Ekey word%7Ewobble%2Broller%5Epage%7EGRID

See if that's what you need. What brand trailer do you have? There are a couple of places local that can get whatever you need.

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Air: its suppose to be a load rite but lateley it seems to be a load wrong. :(

[turbinedoctor]

Air those are the rollers I have now. Dont know if I should go back with them or upgrade to the bushing type. The bushing type will require new arms as well, $$$$$. Maybe if I go back with these they will last a couple of years. Hopfuly load and unload better.

Another thing I thought about is the rollers I have now have a hole drilled in them so the roll pin, which is rusted, can be driven into and out of the shaft.

Not looking forward to this at all. I was worried about the spring replacement but it went better then expected. I was hoping the rollers would be easier then the springs but it's not looking that way. ???

[Airslot]

Turbo, don't sweat it. Post up a pic of one of your roller arms. We'll figure out the best solution. I've done enough trailer work over the years to figure a few things out. ;) I can't see how you'd need new arms to change roller types. Even the tie down yellow rollers come with different size bushings in the kit to accomodate differing shaft sizes.

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

I would like to start this reply with a warning. MJ and Stinky need not read any further. ;D






Air It's not the diameter on the shaft that bothers me, it's the length of it. The space between the inside washer and the outside washer is only about 1/2".

I'll try to get some close ups to post so you can see what I am talking about.

[macojoe]

:-[ You hurt my feelings!!!!! :'(

I would never say anything about you liking it longer then wider!!

But that must just be a guy thing, cause women like it wider if they have to make a choice!! ;D

But the rollers that were just posted above are the right one, I believe??

[reelapeelin]

Turbo, if the roller-replacement gets too HAIRY :o or COSTLY :P ...you can always chunk the rollers and go w/ bunks ... if ya do, I'd make 'em the big timber jobs instead of brackets and 2xs ... just a thought, don't know your ramps up there... :D ...

[Airslot]

RAP, bunks aren't an option around here. There are a few good ramps, but at many you'd be hosed at low tide.


Airslot

[reelapeelin]

Yup, that's what I wus afeerd of ... :P ...

[bigshrimpin]

Nice Turbo . . . The Rollers are a PIA to fix, b/c the C clamps freeze up inside the top holes . . . the trick (when you get there) is to use a drill press. Come at it from the bottom hole and drill the rusty stub right out.

[turbinedoctor]

RAP: Here are the finished axle and spring photos.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0335.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0344.sized.jpg

[turbinedoctor]

AIR: Here are some pics of the rollers and supports.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0327.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0328.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0329.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0330.sized.jpg

[turbinedoctor]

Heres some more.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0331.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0332.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0333.sized.jpg

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album132/100_0334.sized.jpg


Thats all I got for now. Any suggestions?

[Airslot]

Couple of ideas, but I know where there is a set of used pivot arms w/ more rollers and everything ready to go, I think. You have time to drive toward Chinc in the next few days? Just past the first gas station there is a consignment place on the left. They have some trailer parts left side of building and there were pivot arms ready to bolt on to your trailer.

Second idea: Your trailer looks standard issue loadrite. The hog rings are rusted to heck. Probably have to block a portion of the boat so that you can remove one pivot arm at a time. Then you can disassemble and install new rollers. Shouldn't be that big of a job. I'd call it 3 beers and a quart of blood. Language bonus is optional ;D

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

AIR: I would probably float the boat to do this work. Thinking ahead so I can get the parts I need before starting.

Those hog rings are roll pins that I will have to drive out.

Next time I am over towards Chinco. I'll stop and take a look.


Thanks for your input. :)

[Airslot]

Uhhhg, roll pins more of a pain than hog rings. Good luck.

Air

[turbinedoctor]

Thats it. :(



Thats all I get. Good luck. >:(


Where's the " Call me when you are starting and I'll be right there" or "If you need help just call" or "it'll cost a few beers but I can help if needed". ???

Good luck.

Well I guess it's better than nothing. :-/








Just funning ya AIR, thanks for the inputs. ;D

[macojoe]

My last trailer had thin rollers like that. What I did is removed all, got new washers and hog rings, (yes you have them on the back of the roller) Place the roller on the arm and see were it need to ride. Drill new hole and add hog ring or big cotter pin, add roller, another roller and pin you are set to go!!
You have to think out of the box!!

[turbinedoctor]

MJ about how much life should I be able to get out of them. This trailer came with the boat so I dont know how old they are.

[Airslot]

Turbo, ya need a hand? Actually serious on that. I'm in the off season now so I can get away now and then...Lost a fishing trip tonight due to that brake and I'm mad... >:(

Airslot

[turbinedoctor]

Air: I'm not ready to start just yet, but if you want, you can stop by just to look it over and offer suggestions. Due to work schedule it will be the 26th before I can devote time to your Royal visit. ;D

[reelapeelin]

Turbo...you trailer no rock or roll ?? :-[ ...


...but that's a GREAT job on the axle/ springs !! ... 8) ...thanks for postin' all the pics ;) ;D ...

[Airslot]

Royal Visit scheduled for 1/26, really, I wrote it on my schedule ;D

Air

[macojoe]

When I did mine I use all SS cotter pins and they never rusted again!
As for the washers you will have to go Galv. I got rid of my traier 4 years after fixing it and they were all still moving!

That said I use the next size roller, so if you have 3/4 holes go to 1" roller, this allows room for the rust to roll out of the center.
which is the main cause of frozen rollers! There is no room for the rust on the shaft to get out, so it just swells and then seizes the roller in place.

You will notice all or most new trailers have a square shaft. Two sides are rounded for the roller to turn right. the flat sides allow the crap to fall off the center.

[turbinedoctor]

AIR: you got my cell number for directions?


MJ I like the idea of stainless cotter pins.

[Airslot]

I gotcha Turbo.

Air