View Full Version : Mineral Oil & 5200?
reelapeelin
05-06-2010, 08:24 PM
The question has come up; what effect does mineral oil have over the adhesive qualities of 5200 over time?...:head:
Used 5200 to attach the transducer well to inside of hull...and plan to fill with mineral oil...anybody have any thoughts or past experience w/this??...I guess I'll be in touch w/3M's technical gurus on this one...
willy
05-06-2010, 09:12 PM
Ozzie I do not believe it would have any effect once the 5200 has set up. It could slow or retard full curing in the area of contact if put in place before the cure has set.
It is impervious to many chems and chem agents once the cure has set, I believe for standard 5200 would be at least 24 hours but i would give it 48 to be sure, especially in a damp or high humidity enviroment.
Genie Aye
05-07-2010, 12:46 AM
Ozzie I do not believe it would have any effect once the 5200 has set up. It could slow or retard full curing in the area of contact if put in place before the cure has set.
It is impervious to many chems and chem agents once the cure has set, I believe for standard 5200 would be at least 24 hours but i would give it 48 to be sure, especially in a damp or high humidity enviroment.
I agree--I do not think that mineral oil will effect 5200 in the least.
As for full cure--I beleive it states 72 hours on the tube.
reelapeelin
05-07-2010, 04:21 AM
Ozzie I do not believe it would have any effect once the 5200 has set up. It could slow or retard full curing in the area of contact if put in place before the cure has set.
It is impervious to many chems and chem agents once the cure has set, I believe for standard 5200 would be at least 24 hours but i would give it 48 to be sure, especially in a damp or high humidity enviroment.
Willy I agree w/you and Genie Aye...one guy said he had a problem, but admitted he didn't let it fully cure the 72 hrs called for...he fixed the problem w/a quick dry latex sealant by DAPCO...I might give it a coat of that just to be on the safe side...sure won't hurt...
Thanks Guys!!...
csvencer
05-07-2010, 06:49 AM
5200 full cure time is 7 days. Fast dry is 24 hrs.
-Svence
Destroyer
05-07-2010, 06:50 AM
Hey Reel? Just a quick question... why are you using the pipe filled with fluid instead of just epoxing the 'ducer to the floor like it is called for by the makers? Is it for ease of removal sometime in the future, or something else?... Thanks..
reelapeelin
05-07-2010, 06:59 AM
Hey Reel? Just a quick question... why are you using the pipe filled with fluid instead of just epoxing the 'ducer to the floor like it is called for by the makers? Is it for ease of removal sometime in the future, or something else?... Thanks..
Destroyer...that's a good question!!...had considered all along would epoxy...then when CB laid out this method, it does leave a second chance if this doesn't work (I think it will)...epoxy one and it's cooked, working or not...over the years I've come to appreciate things that can be undone...
captpete13
05-07-2010, 06:21 PM
hey reel. I have installed the same transducers that you are talking about. If I remember correctly you are supposed to use GE silicone to install it to the hull. The ones that I have installed specificly say not to use 5200. You can also fill the transducer with ethyl glycol antifreeze if you dont have mineral oil.
Destroyer
05-07-2010, 07:05 PM
hey reel. I have installed the same transducers that you are talking about. If I remember correctly you are supposed to use GE silicone to install it to the hull. The ones that I have installed specificly say not to use 5200. You can also fill the transducer with ethyl glycol antifreeze if you dont have mineral oil.
Cool... never heard about the antifreeze fill before.. good to know.. :clap:
You can find mineral oil in just about any supermarket in the health section. People take it as a laxitive. Usually about $2.50 a bottle. Besides using it as the liquid in a compass it's also used as the fluid inside a liquid filled sump pump. Very high dielectric strength.
spareparts
05-07-2010, 07:46 PM
I've used sun tanning oil in a pinch, worls just fine
garagenc
05-07-2010, 08:33 PM
The only problem you may have is if the ducer scatches the 5200 then the oil can get in the 5200 and break it down chemically. I have seen 2 ducers where the mineral oil was leaking out from the seal area and when the owners took them off the 5200 was deteriorating.
But I know of 5 others with the same set up and they have not had a problem.
reelapeelin
05-08-2010, 06:59 AM
The only problem you may have is if the ducer scatches the 5200 then the oil can get in the 5200 and break it down chemically. I have seen 2 ducers where the mineral oil was leaking out from the seal area and when the owners took them off the 5200 was deteriorating.
But I know of 5 others with the same set up and they have not had a problem.
I'm gonna coat the inside of the well including the 5200 bead around the bottom w/a DAPCO latex sealer...should isolate oil from 5200
Capt Pete...I think they don't want you to set the ducer in 5200 which isn't what I'm doin here...it'll be suspended in the oil...the 5200 is adhesive/sealer for the pipe/well only, so I think it'll be OK...
And the ethyl glycol anti-freeze concerns me more than the mineral oil in terms of breaking down the 5200 over time...thanks for the suggestion and I'll use as plan B, but will forge ahead w/ min. oil til it poofs in my face...LOL!!...
randlemanboater
05-08-2010, 07:37 AM
Hey REEL, just brain storming here....what about mixing up a little resin to attach the pipe instead of 5200....no worries then.
Destroyer
05-08-2010, 11:03 AM
Hey REEL, just brain storming here....what about mixing up a little resin to attach the pipe instead of 5200....no worries then.
Actually I was thinking along similar lines. Why not just epoxy the pipe in place? After all, it's the 'ducer (and the cost of it) that you're worried about being in the wrong place. Granted, the pipe will not be as easy to remove with epoxy as with 5200, but a hammer and a mini-grinder will make short work of it if it does need to be moved. And the epoxy is completely impervious to mineral oil after it's cured. As a safety net you could always run a bead of rtv around the outside bottom of the pipe where it meets the hull once the epoxy is set up. :head:
reelapeelin
05-08-2010, 11:19 AM
Randleman & Destroyer...Pobabaly should have done that, but she's been set in 5200 for several days now...I'll coat w/some sealer I just picked up and try 'er that way...if this DOESN'T work, I'll cut it out and epoxy it back in...
rb437
05-28-2013, 10:37 PM
Did a search to see if I could find info on your transducer install. HDS5 is not reading depth :( Reel, your install does not seem to be the problem. I loosened the clamp on the lid and looked inside, the mineral oil is all present and accounted for. Ant thoughts on why I would get three dashes instead of a depth reading?
spareparts
05-29-2013, 06:27 AM
three dashes indicate no signal to the head unit, either a bad transducer, a bad connection or a break in the transducer cable
rb437
05-30-2013, 10:42 AM
Appreciate the diagnosis. Kinda what I was figuring. I tried a soft reset of the unit and that did not help. I would have thought that if the mineral oil was gone I would have gotten errattic and inaccurate readings instead of no reading at all. Oh well, one more thing one the to do list.
franko
12-03-2013, 08:04 PM
5200 is nearly bullet proof once cured
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