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mauryc
08-03-2008, 12:24 PM
Brought her to the launch today and had a no start. I could only get about .5 volts to the starter and the power trim. Battery is fully charged and everything worked in the driveway about an hour before (tilt/trim and motor started right up.) I'm getting 12.5 volts to the red and black to the switch, but I need a diagram to see which wirea are what for the output. Anything else it could be except the switch? I could see solinoid if it were only the starting issue, but its affecting the tilt/trim also. I did wash her down before I left so maybe I fried the switch?

Thanks,
Maury

tsubaki
08-03-2008, 12:38 PM
Take a pair of jumper cables and test to see if the negetive wire is OK.
Ground one end to the battery (-) post and the other end to the engine block.
Had two times the negetive wire was broke, gave good readings but under the load of the tilt or starter it acted like a dead battery.

spareparts
08-03-2008, 04:02 PM
check the ground cable, when multiple issues show up at once, its usually the ground connection

mauryc
08-03-2008, 05:49 PM
NE1 have a diagram of the round omc ignition switch so I can test voltages coming off the switch?

tsubaki
08-03-2008, 06:06 PM
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture252.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/ignitionswitch-1.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture254.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture255.jpg

tsubaki
08-03-2008, 06:17 PM
I would have thought the problem to be with the main wire to the motor and not the switch.
The switch isn't capable of handleing any load such as the tilt or starter, only the solonoids or relays to operate them.
Have you done a load test on the battery to be sure it is up to snuff?

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/batterytester.gif
It really sounds like a poor connection between the battery and engine, like spare said, it will usually be the ground.
Be sure and check the connections, you can also use the jumper cables (if it will fit) up to the starter solonoid and see if that helps.

phatdaddy
08-03-2008, 06:22 PM
had similar problem once & it was the ground on the starter. it showed 12 vt when static, but dropped significantly when starter was energized..

spareparts
08-03-2008, 08:21 PM
use a load tester like tsu posted to check the battery cable connections at the engine

mauryc
08-03-2008, 08:26 PM
My 7 year old was disappointed we didn't get to put the boat in so we took her to the pool when we got back home. I'm off Tuesday so I should have a chance to check things out further. What kills me is everything worked like a charm in the driveway before we left then poof, nothing. No warning signs of any kind.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Maury

THEFERMANATOR
08-03-2008, 08:36 PM
If this is a JOHNNY-RUDE outboard, check the fuse holder under the engine cowling over by the starter solonoid. Look for any signs of corrosion or water intrusion in the fuse holder and wires right next to it. I've had this same problem more than once with my 140 where all works and then none works. Voltage will be present until you place a slight load on the circuit. That inline fuse provides the power for the trim relays and the ignition switch.