My current project

[cterrebonne]

that sub is going to be a beast

[Stinky_Hooker]

You are an evil genius!!!


"Frankenburban"

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Stinky_Hooker

"Frankenburban"

I may have to steal this one STINK, it fit's.

Today's update.

Well I got the exhaust finished up yesterday, and I spent today cutting away at the radiator support to fit the DMAX intercooler and radiator in. It is a TIGHT fit between the radiator and fan clutch, but after about 4 hours of cutting and modifying I was able to get enough room to put the fan clutch on with the radiator in place which leaves me an inch of clearance between the clutch and core and 2 1/4" from the fan blade tips to the core. I decided to make it a close fit and severely modify the radiator support to accomadate a stock cooler and radiator rather than modifying the radiator, intercooler, and support. Once I get it boxed back together it will be plenty stout as I can sit on it now without it buckling and I am no where near done reinforcing it.

Here's a few shots of the exhaust. That 4" pipe looks HUGE compared to my old 3" pipe I had before.



And the CORSA muffler is a MONSTER compared to the 4" DIAMOND EYE that came in the kit. I ended up having to relocate the front hanger forward so I could move the muffler forward and I had to modify the middle hanger some to allow this as well.


Not a job for the timid.



Removed just a little bit bit of metal from it so far.

[THEFERMANATOR]

I guess I've been slacking on updating this one. I got to driver today and feel her out a bit and the power of the DMAX is SWEET in this SUB. It has more power with 3.42's in it than my 6.5 EVER had with the 4.10's. I have run into a few bugs that have to be ironed out though. I'm leaving on my honeymoon on WEDNESDAY, so thankfully I have a back-up vehicle for my trip.

First off the heater return pipe from the heater cores to the lower radiator hose developed a leak in it right at the weld for the retaining arm.


So I'll have to get a new tube for when I get back. Also I have 2 codes that won't go away that I can find no reason for, P0748 and P0778. Also I have very little power in 1st gear and lots of blue smoke if I giver her more than about 20% throttle. This only seems to happen in 1st as 2nd and 3rd pulled VERY strongly. Also my tow/haul mode isn't functioning properly as it gives me VERY hard shifts when engaged and holds them out ridicuously long and provides NO grade braking what so ever. I wasn't able to get her up fast enough where I was driving to test out the OD/LO function.

The A/C doesn't engage for some reason so I'll have to do some digging tommorrow with EFILIVE and see if I can figure out why the ECM isn't commanding the A/C relay(A/C works when I jumpered it).

Heres a pic showing the TCM and you can see the ECM as well tucked in by the drivers side battery tray.


I haven't finished up the airbox yet, so for now the filter is just laying in there.


Another engine bay pic.


And a pic of the front end with my projector headlights. I did have the grill and such on it, but had to take it back off to get to the bolts that hold the drivers battery tray in place.


Hopefully I can get ahold of Brayden before I leave and get his opinion on what to check for the 2 codes and also about low power in 1st as I think it is a torque management issue.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Got one more bug figured out this morning. WONDERFUL ALLDATA got me again. I charged the A/C but the compressor wouldn't turn on. I dug up everything I could from ALLDATA about the A/C trigger and it clearly said that it looks for a ground from the A/C control head to trigger the compressor, THIS IS FALSE! It looks for a 12V+ signal to trigger the compressor to come on. So now I have to go back into my PDC and remove the A/C request relay and hook the A/C sense wire up to my A/C request wire from the 95 head since it powers the circuit on.

[THEFERMANATOR]

And I was asked on the other forum things I would have done differently, this is a short compilation.

First I would do a 2" body lift and raise the engine up 1". Second I would move the torsion bar crossmember back 1" like the guys who do CUMMINS swaps do and then slide the assembly back 1". After doing this swap I would do the dash swap with it if I ever did another. The custom TCM and other hassles isn't worth it. If somebody could make an interface box to allow tow/haul mode like the factory did with the BCM then I would go this route like I did. The DURAMAX intercooler does fit after MASSIVE amounts of radiator support work, but I think a modified CUMMINS IC would be a better option like BIGLEY did with his. Any way you slice it this is NOT an easy swap, and you WILL encounter MANY hurdles and challenges. And don't try to always take what seems like the easy way out as in the end it could bite you in the but. I encountered this with the power steering lines, fuel lines, and trans cooler lines. I ended up going with AN lines for the tranny, and the good hard nylon cored with cotton wrapped fuel lines, and mixing and matching the power steering lines.

And a donor vehicle is a MUST in my opinion. You will be pulling your hair out trying to piece evrything together from one of the EBAY deals. Also a newer SUBURBAN would be a MUCH better option to do this swap as the wiring is almost plug and play for most everything in it.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Well after fighting with PENSACOLA DIESEL remans for almost 2 months of the engine not running right, I went and bit the bullet and bought a set of GM remans. Now she RUN'S. So here's a copy of my latest post about it now that I'm almost finished up with it.

Since it's about 95% done now I took some pics for the insurance company today and figured I would put em here as well. I still have to finish up the air filter mount, put yet another shift shaft seal in the tranny(can't figure out why it is fine for a few eeks then starts leaking, this will be the 3rd seal) and get the windshield leak fixed. Most of the front end is back on and it's in mostly driveable condition as well though and waiting for insurance and a tag so I can go break her in a bit.

[Blue_Runner]

Is that a K&N air filter? I just cleaned and re-oiled mine on my white '96 GMC 2-door Yukon. Looks A LOT like your burban! I'm hoping to see my gas mileage get better......seems to be working!

Nice job! And pics Even though I'm not mechanically inclined and could only understand about 1/4 of what you were talking about!

[THEFERMANATOR]

It's a AFE PRO DRY S filter that uses no oil and filters better than most oiled filters do. If theres any questions feel fee to ask, I can break it down for yeah quite a bit. I just got through playing with my EFILIVE and my 1st custom tune. I have a few issues in it to work out, but let's just say this thing wil flat out MOVE!

[lumberslinger178]

frem you have a gift.....