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#51
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Yep, when I first saw it I was (and still am) wodering they cut the vertical flange and not the horizontal flange. Makes no sense to me. I would have cut notches out of the top, bent the piece, and welded the seams. But, I can't weld aluminum and for the price I guess I shouldn't complain. Pending rental of the engine hoist this weekend to remount the motor, I have right at $650 in the entire project.
Maury
__________________
FLOUNDER 
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#53
04-01-2008, 09:17 AM
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Gentlemen, the motor is back on. My wife and I used a engine hoist and a little muscle to get it lined up and mounted. I found my transom cap is so thick that the motor doesn't seat flush against the transom. I need to get some washers or aluminum scrap of the same thickness to level it out. Other than that, no problems. She cranked right up. I took the boat to get the front seats made (just like Lumber's), so I'll post final pics when I get it back. I'm very happy with the pourable transom product. I have a solid transom and I have no visable signs of repair. My top cap and inner liner are still in one piece. Longevity of the repair is yet to be determined. I hope everyone found the process useful. I'm sure I could have produced more pics, but......maybe next time.
Maury
__________________
FLOUNDER
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#55
04-01-2008, 10:47 AM
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Maury - Get a set of wedges from Bob's Machine shop. That will fix that problem and give you some good performance getting out of the hole. They're like $30 + shipping.
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#56
04-01-2008, 03:35 PM
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There you go; nice recommendation BS. That'll do the trick.
__________________
 1990 Hydrasports 2000cc Vector with 96 200HP Oceanrunner. Saved by grace alone, through faith alone, in Christ alone http://www.providencerpchurch.com/
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#58
04-02-2008, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
 
__________________
1987 Dual Console / 2007 200 hp E-Tec 
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Linear Mode
