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#41
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WOW, who is this guy ????, look at all I have missed !!!. Great work man, Hats off to ya. Cant believe the cost either, and the time as well you saved. I must have put out $1800.00 to redo my transom myself, plus the super long hours I put in as well.
Again, great job brother, glad to have ya hear as a member to help others out. Hammer.
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#42
03-24-2008, 11:36 PM
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Fine job you did there Muaryc.That thing looks d@m good. Looks like your about ready ta hang that motor on and go!!
__________________
 77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser 72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude
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#43
03-25-2008, 02:45 AM
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Wow . . . I think I'm a believer now on these pourable transoms. Looks great. Screw and glue method is about 3 days of full work (going through the outside skin), 5 gallons of resin, and two 4x8 sheets of 1/2" marine plywood (3 layers), Fiberglass Mat and tape . . . but if this will get'r done in 10 hours and requires less finish work . . . I'm in!!!
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#44
03-25-2008, 07:10 AM
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ok, heres a question I've been pondering over, what about combining the pourable transom with Coosa/Penske board. Cut pieces of coosa to loosely fit in the transom area, it doesn't have to be a close fit as the purable transom mix will fill in. Then pour the stuff in around the board, just wondering if there would be any weight savings, strength enhancements, or even cost savings. I've been trying to figure out a test to compare the feesability and strength as compared to straight pourable transom with spending too much $$$. Next time I'm at the fiberglass shop, I'm going to pick up some scrap coosa and part of an old transom, now if I only had the time
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#45
03-25-2008, 09:30 AM
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Spares I don't see why that wouldn't work. If you want super strong adhesion . . . then drill some 2" holes through the coosa . . . that will let the pourable resin pass through the large pieces.
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#46
03-25-2008, 06:06 PM
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Well guys, I guess I need to finish this thing up. As of 5:30 on Tuesday after Easter I haven't got the motor mounted back on yet. That is scheduled for this Saturday morning. Holidays with family over has slowed the process. I did however take the boat to a local fab shop and thry made the aluminum bracket to cover the transom. I know some of you would have just sanded and painted and not worried about the cap, but I wasn't comfortable with my finishing skills with glass. I set out to have an OEM look and I think I will accomplish that when all is said and done. I'm not that happy with the cap - its made out of thick material and id didn't fit as well as the original. I had to use alot of 5200, silicone and some big screws go hold it down, but she's not going anywhere. Hell, its just a transom cap - the motor will cover most of it.
    I'll post a final pic when I get the 175 back on. Maury
__________________
FLOUNDER
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#49
03-26-2008, 09:52 PM
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My guess is that because of the thicker gauge aluminum, they cut three kerfs to allow it to form to the curve in the transom.
__________________
Heavily medicated for your protection.
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#50
03-27-2008, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
__________________
 CY 1984 V20 STEP LIFT I/O 470 MERCRUISER Wheeling, WV
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