Transom repair

[captpete13]

Looking good. You should be back in the water soon.

[SkunkBoat]

I hope my slip is still empty???

If not next sunday then labor day weekend.

[bradford]

Coming along nicely. I plan to move my deck drains up higher like yours as soon as I finish a couple other projects.

Your tent pics made me think of E.T.

[captpete13]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

I hope my slip is still empty???

If not next sunday then labor day weekend.

I'm pretty sure it's empty. I would go check for you but I have this week off. Hope to see you soon.

[bgreene]

Looks strong enough for a Yami 300 4 stroke......

[SkunkBoat]

Motor is on.
2 bolts were bad.
Bought 1/2" x 4" x13 thread SS bolts & Nylock nuts. The thread is coarser than what is being replaced. They are going in the bottom holes.
Any good reason to get "factory" bolts?



[IMG][/IMG]




Motor/Battery wire had a bulge in it...glad I found it now.


Working on wiring some new Bilge pumps, led lights & new switches.
In full press to get launched this weekend.

[phatdaddy]

i've always heard finer threads=more hold.

i've got couple or extra ones that fit a 150 merc, if not in a big hurry, i'll mail em to you.

edit: never mind, just noticed the weekend target date.

let me know anyhow

[Kracker Jack]

I have 4 factory suzuki fine thread bolts i could send ya if you still need them

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

I have 4 factory suzuki fine thread bolts i could send ya if you still need them

i've got couple or extra ones that fit a 150 merc, if not in a big hurry, i'll mail em to you.

Thanks for the offers but I'll go with what I have and maybe change them out next season when I have time.

Kracker, I have a Service Manual pdf for the DF140. If you send me a PM, I can email you a link to download it from my google drive.

I'm in the process of rewiring the entire switch panel. found lots of crappy wire and crimps. then found corrosion in the fuse panel....off to West Marine for a new one.

Had my old bilge pump all connected up with new wire & crimps & heat shrink. tested it, it ran 4 seconds and jammed. Took it out of the plastic base to check it out, snapped off one of the retainer clips in the process, didn't find anything jamming it, spun it by hand, tested it, it worked, but the base clip is broken and I don't trust it so Another trip to West Marine. Cut out all my nice wiring and wired in a new bilge pump( actually a second new bilge pump because I had already mounted a new one in the forward bilge).

I'm adding leds to the gunnels and cabin and an underwater led in the transom drain plug...very cool! Of course, they all needed switches...

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Motor is on.
2 bolts were bad.
Bought 1/2" x 4" x13 thread SS bolts & Nylock nuts. The thread is coarser than what is being replaced. They are going in the bottom holes.
Any good reason to get "factory" bolts?

Coarse Threads

Coarse threads are more durable and have greater resistance to stripping and cross-threading. The height of each thread is greater than the corresponding fine thread so there is more material between each thread making flank engagement greater.

Coarse threads are less susceptible to being nicked or damaged, so they do not have to be ***8220;handled with care***8221; as much as fine threads. A nick to a fine thread can cause more of a problem proportionally due to the shallowness of the thread, e.g. gaging or assembly.

Coarse threaded fasteners install much faster than fine threaded fasteners. A ½-13 bolt assembles in 65% of the time it would take to assemble a ½-20 bolt. The ½-20 bolt advances one inch in 20 revolutions, while the ½-13 bolt advances one inch in only 13 revolutions.

Coarse threads are not affected by plating buildup as much as fine threads. The same amount of plating on a coarse thread would use up a greater amount of the plating allowance on a fine thread. Fine threads experience more gaging and assembly problems due to plating buildup than coarse threads, as there is less material between each thread flank.

When using CoilThread Locking Inserts, or other stainless steel threaded fasteners, coarse threads are much less likely to experience galling than fine threads. Fine threads have more rotations as we discussed previously and this coupled with the closer pitch diameter fits of fine threads increases the tendency for fine threads to experience thread galling.

Fine Threads

Fine threaded bolts are stronger than the corresponding coarse threaded bolts of the same hardness. This is in both tension and shear due to the fine threaded bolts having a slightly larger tensile stress area and minor diameter.

Fine threads have less tendency to loosen under vibration due to their having a smaller helix angle than coarse threads. Fine thread Locking Insert grip coils are more flexible than coarse thread insert corresponding size grip coils, and are less likely to take a set under vibration conditions.

Fine threads because of their finer pitch allow for finer adjustments in those applications that need this characteristic.

Fine threads can be more easily tapped into difficult to tap materials, and thin walled sections.

Fine threads require less tightening torque to develop equivalent preloads to the corresponding coarse thread bolt sizes.

Summary

Normally a coarse thread is specified for most industrial applications unless there is a convincing reason not to do so. Military and aerospace applications generally use coarse threads on sizes 8-32 and smaller. On metric fasteners, generally the coarse sizes are the most commonly used with the finer pitches being less readily available.