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#31
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gator, you can use those, just cut off the part of the threads that you don't need. just thread the nut all the way up, cut the nipple where you want it, and unthread the nut to cleanup the threads. i had to trim the bar drains.
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#32
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I've always wondered if you could reroute the scuppers to drain into the motor well on outboard powered V 20's and then fill in the holes on the sides. ??? *I feel this would be a much safer setup instead of having two holes in your boat below the waterline. *what do ya'll think?
Not to mention it would be easier to work with having a little extra distance between the drain and the thru hull. Anybody thats done this repair knows what i'm talking about. ;)
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#33
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I tend to agree with the thru hull design being a disaster design, but then you would alwys have to count on your bilge pump to be working. :-/
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#34
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Yeah, I thought if I got one of them I would cut it off and use the original plastic elbow......if the threads were the same.......and I could get the broken piece out of the elbow without breaking the elbow......and, well, I think one of these other ideas may work better.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#35
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Quote:
I am going to explore this, that seems like a real good idea as long as the height of the well is lower than the floor. My other thought is to run them straight out the back with flappers.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#36
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Personally, I like self bailing. But I keep my boat on the trailer and very rarely leave it in the water. All of my other boats were not self bailers. I don't miss having water in my bilge one bit. Matter of fact that is what sank my 17ft boat at my dock on High Rock Lake. It wasn't a self bailer. The rains came, automatic float switch quit working and down she went down in 10 ft of water. You could barely make out the bow rail if you looked closely. :o
Its 6 one way and half-a-dozen the other I guess but my vote is to stick with self bailing. Just make sure your fittings are good and double clamp them if not already and there should be no problems. I'm pretty sure that most boats of today are self bailing and there is a reason for it. I think its because when not self bailing, the hulls sit and tend to fill with water over time, rotting the stringers and such, but that's just my guess. Think about all the rot in the older boats that are not self bailing...... Blue's .02
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1994 Wellcraft V21 |
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#37
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Blue's .02 makes LOTTA sense ... don't get me wrong; I love my '74, but if I'd looked a little longer, it'd be a newer, self-bailer ;) ...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#38
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Fix what you got, water in the bildge never did anyone any good!
Splashingn around getting everything covered in salt, rotting stuff, Nope I would not miss it for 1 min!! Tell you the truth I have been trying to figure out how I could make mine a self bailer! But there is to much to it for me, I have the 2 floor fish boxes and with out makingthem water tight the water gets into them any way, I could plug the drain holes but then I would have to tanks full of water, so yes 600 of one, 200 of the other.
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#39
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Just go out to your storage room, take that Bilge Pump outta the pack and install it in yer boat ... ;) :-* :-* ...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#40
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Look ma, no bilge pump:
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Bottom's up!!!
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