Rebuild Repower

[Myfathersson]

Looking good. I plan to pull the cap on my '87 Center Console in the next several weeks to replace the stringers. Watching your thread for inspiration! - Greg

[phatdaddy]

Nice job ST. Looks like you ve got a great place to work in, that s a big part of it. Keep the pics flowing

[Slightly_Twisted]

Thanks Greg, the hardest part of pulling the cap for me was getting the balance point right. Took a block and tackle, and three come-alongs.

I do most of the work myself, do I was able to con my pops over tonight to get the first transom core board in. Didn’t take that long at all.

Coated both the hull and the plywood with regular catalyzed resin, let the tack up. Took about 15 mins then mixed up a lot of thickened resin spread it out with a 1/4 inch trowel and bolted it to on. We got a really good amount squeeze out the sides so I’m sure there are no air pockets. Used what squeezed out to fill the gap around the ply and the hull.

We are going to let it sit over night then repeat tomorrow. I’ll let it cure for 3-4 days after and start on the stringers.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Everything actually went to plan this morning. The bolts where harder to get out then I thought so that was a pain but not a problem. Interesting the PB squished out to the bolt holes like I planed, the interesting thing was the mixture was so hard that it threaded the holes. I couldn’t break them out I had to unscrewed them. That made me feel real good about the bond and PB mixture I used.

The next layer was just a repeat from the first. I had two options
1. PB and same bolts
2. Layer of 1708 instead of the PB.

Others know way better them me about the pros and cons of both, but I decided that first one came out so well I was going to repeat the exact same process.

I think I will add a third layer of tabbing when I glass the transom in. So I’ll do 6in, 10in,12in, two full sheets of 1708. All hot coated to make sure I get a chemical bond on all the tabbing.

I’m going to give it a few days to cure then mix up more PB to fill the gaps and add a better radius to the wood hull joint. I’m going to try the PB in a plastic bag with the corner cut off, masonry style and see how that works.

[Pipe_Dream]

Keep it up!

[Myfathersson]

Hey Twisted I was wondering - it looks like you've only got the hull supported on your caddies with the stringers out. Do you have any other reinforcing in place to prevent the hull from deforming?

[Slightly_Twisted]

Originally Posted by Myfathersson

Hey Twisted I was wondering - it looks like you've only got the hull supported on your caddies with the stringers out. Do you have any other reinforcing in place to prevent the hull from deforming?

Yeah I have the keel blocked in 5 different spots, and then 4 on each side (on the flat steps).

I leveled the stringers then blocked everything I could. Since I was walking, cutting, grinding, etc I didn’t want anything to move.

[SkunkBoat]

nice work

Interesting the different models of V20s. Yours had a full transom and it was flat all the way across. My 84 cuddy had a motor well and the transom angled from the sides. it was actually 3 pieces of plywood.

I was concerned when I first saw your post that you didn't consider that but I can see in the pix its OK. If I used a flat transom on mine the cap and motor well would not have fit when they went back on.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

nice work

Interesting the different models of V20s. Yours had a full transom and it was flat all the way across. My 84 cuddy had a motor well and the transom angled from the sides. it was actually 3 pieces of plywood.

I was concerned when I first saw your post that you didn't consider that but I can see in the pix its OK. If I used a flat transom on mine the cap and motor well would not have fit when they went back on.

Thanks Skunk,

Oh mine is curved by a lot. It was original with a seadrive and has a small flat spot in the center. The only way I could match the curve was using the plywood on the outside and drew the inside plywood one at a time. When I bolted them in I used metal flat bars vertically.

The photo attached is looking down in the middle of the transom.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Did a lot of small little things to get ready for this morning.
Fillets, corner radius, cutting the glass, etc all that.

It was perfect weather this morning 70 low humidity.

Tabbed in the transom core, three layers of 1708, 6in, 10in, 16in.
Sealed the core with a coat for resin, let it kick, then started the tabs. I let each layer kick before starting the next but all were wet on wet. Put one full sheet over the whole core and wrapped is around onto the transom skin. I took wax paper and clamped the top so it would “glue” to each side. Once that had kicked and a little extra I pulled the wax paper off. Not the results I wanted few air pockets and not great adherence.
Instead of trying to just make it work I painted PVA over the whole transom/tabs, and let it dry. I’ll grind it down and add two more full layers when I do the stringers. The picture looks green because of the PVA.