1988 Evinrude 225 experts needed!

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by HandymanSpecial

Why did the 225s have trouble at idle ? This is the trouble I am having right now with a 87 OMC, wont run on it own under 3000 rpms without hitting the primer to keep it going

All of my JOHNNY-RUDES that have done this to me have been due to piston to cylinder clearance. When they get loose they won't pull air through the carbs due to blow-by and lack there of crankcase compression. But the fact you can keep it goin by hitting the primer may mean you have a pickup tube problem in your carbs.

Thanks Fermanator, dont know what my next step is, i guess pull the carbs back off and check the tubes again. Its funny runs great over 3000 and run 5k for about 50 miles yesterday and never missed a lick at uper rps, just wont start good (without throttle) at start, then ya need to play with the primer to get it up over 3k

[spareparts]

fuel pump

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by spareparts

fuel pump

That's what I's thinkin'...EXCEPT it's runnin' good at hi RPMs...when fuel pump went out on my ol' 86 Rude, it wouldn't run at ANY RPM unless the bulb was bein' PUMPED ;) ...

I also was thinking fuel pump, but i thought they were either good or bad

[spareparts]

probably a combination of issues, sounds like an air leak in the fuel line, a weak fuel pump(posibly leaking into the crankcase), adn something in the idle circut of the carbs. First things first, run a compresion test, make sure your not chasing another problem. then rebuild teh fuel system, go thru the carbs, replace the fuel line and primer bulb, replace all the fuel filters, rebuild the fuel pump. Its almost a maintaince item on outboards to go thru teh fuel system from time to time. Don't forget to float test the anti siphon valve while you're at it.

[THEFERMANATOR]

It could be a fuel pump, but I doubt it since he said he gets fuel when he push's the key in for the primer(primer injects raw fuel using fuel pressure from the fuel pump). In your early posts you asked about jets, you got the 14's and 48's for it right? You put them in the right spots(14 in the top and 48 in the bottom)? Are you sure that you got the body gaskets seated in correctly when you put it back together(the rubber O-ring like gasket seals the idle and mid-range circuits to the base plate)? Are your plastic carb bodys warped?

First I would make sure the air bleed jets are in the right spots, this can be done by just removing the airbox. If they are in the right places, remove the plastic body's and tear them completely apart. Take a piece of VERY small wire and feed it into the jet pickups and make sure they are open. Also be VERY careful about what you spray on the carb body's, they are plastic and can be melted with most cleaners.

I may be able to break away one day and come help you take a look at it. I need to run down there and get my tanks VIZZED over at FANTASEA anyways. Shoot me a PM if your interested.

Thats where I got certified from Jim and Julie at Fantasea, That would be great it ya get this way . Isnt Julie a sweetheart ???

Sorry bout that ya got me going thinking about Julie, anyway, I never put new gaskets in the carbs, and never checked to see if they were warped or not but i did clean the tubes good, but they could have sucked more stuff up one or more

[THEFERMANATOR]

Yeah, she's a sweetheart.










Sorry, I needed a moment to reflect ;D. Make sure you got your airbleed jets in the right spots. There easy to get mixed up and it won't run below 2,500-3,000 if they're mixed up. I've done plenty without the kits, but sometimes the seals are shrunk and shift when you reassamble them.

Another thing to check is to remove the airbox, open the butterflys all the way so you can see down in the intake, and then turn the engine over(with the ignition grounded or unhooked) and see if the reeds are popping open nicely and evenly across all cylinders. This will let you know if it is pulling in sufficient airflow.