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#1
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Welcome to the asylum, twisted. As others have so eloquently stated, YES you need a bilge pump. I prefer an automatic float switch AND a manual dash switch. Good suggestion, MJ, about mounting it up a bit from the bottom. Mine is right on the bottom and sucks up whatever junk is in the bilge. But I wouldn't go up any more than an inch or so.
Tell us more about your boat, twisted. And yes we all like to see pics. 8) |
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#2
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Not to hard to install. May have to yank out your battery to get in to install. SOme hard wire the pump right to the battery. "run power source directly to battery".
Mine is wired to a switch on my dash that I can manually purge when needed. Still waiting on your pics. *;D ![]()
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#3
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i recomend and install two pumps on any boat, with a minimum rating of 1000 GPH each. the ratings are measured with no hose attached, free flow and usually at 14 volts input, after you install a 1000 GPH pump and run the hose, you're lucky if it will pump 500. I like to use the pumps that require1 1/8" hose, wire each to a switch, and each to an auto float( currently prefer the Sure Bail), that is hooked direectly to the batery using a resetable breaker rather than a fuse. I normally install one of the auto switches higher than the other and hook it to an alarm as well as the pump, that way if my primary pump isn't working, the secondary will alert me to the fact that i'm taking on water. Also use smooth wall hose, not the cheap corrigated hose,it will futher degrade the flow of your bilge pump. Install correct size thru hulls for the hose, not adapted fittings. Your bilge pump system should be able to at least keep up with the water flow coming in your boat if you leave the draiin plug out( you'd be surprised just how much water comes in that small hole
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#4
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The aforementioned windtalker even has a pump or two (brand new no less), sitting in his cellar that he refuses to take the time to install. ::) :P
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Heavily medicated for your protection. |
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#5
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Quote:
Quote:
Just a 1/8 hole, by the end of the day I was full of water!! :o
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#6
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Welcome to the asylum, twisted. As others have so eloquently stated, YES you need a bilge pump. I prefer an automatic float switch AND a manual dash switch. Good suggestion, MJ, about mounting it up a bit from the bottom. Mine is right on the bottom and sucks up whatever junk is in the bilge. But I wouldn't go up any more than an inch or so.
Tell us more about your boat, twisted. And yes we all like to see pics. 8) |
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#7
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Quote:
Oops, Speaking of oops, I was glad for my pump when I forgot my drain plug once. I remembered just as the boat was off the trailer and in the water. I quick got the plug in and then turned on the bilge. Saved me from what could have been a catastrophy.
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Bottom's up!!!
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#8
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i recomend and install two pumps on any boat, with a minimum rating of 1000 GPH each. the ratings are measured with no hose attached, free flow and usually at 14 volts input, after you install a 1000 GPH pump and run the hose, you're lucky if it will pump 500. I like to use the pumps that require1 1/8" hose, wire each to a switch, and each to an auto float( currently prefer the Sure Bail), that is hooked direectly to the batery using a resetable breaker rather than a fuse. I normally install one of the auto switches higher than the other and hook it to an alarm as well as the pump, that way if my primary pump isn't working, the secondary will alert me to the fact that i'm taking on water. Also use smooth wall hose, not the cheap corrigated hose,it will futher degrade the flow of your bilge pump. Install correct size thru hulls for the hose, not adapted fittings. Your bilge pump system should be able to at least keep up with the water flow coming in your boat if you leave the draiin plug out( you'd be surprised just how much water comes in that small hole
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#9
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I agree with SpareParts. I now have a redundant system after a bad experience. The previous owner had screwed the depth finder into the transom and did not seal the screws in. 2 came out when I was offshore and we took on water fast.
The bilge failed, luckily we had a manual bilge onboard (another suggested accessory). After limping back to shore and fixing it, I sealed the holes and installed a second bilge on a float switch, 2 inches higher than the automatic. Peace of mind is priceless. |
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#10
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Welcome Twisted. You have no idea what a great bunch of characters are on this site. I'm pretty busy, so I don't post much, but I'm working on that and I check in often to restore a little sanity (woah, what's that say about me?)
About the pump(s) - I have two, one automatic with a manual override and one straight manual. The automatic is the solid state kind (no moving parts) and it seems to work OK. I learned a couple of things reading this thread: One (not suprisingly from MJ) about blocking them up - with any luck, I hope to have some fish scales to rinse off the deck, and I don't need a plugged up pump. On my '85, the deck "self bailes" by draining into the bilge, so the pump actually does the bailing. The other is hooking them direct to different batteries. Yes you want two batteries, battery #2 saved a day of boating when #1 decided it wasn't going to start the engine. I also like my installed smart charger - I plug it in when the boat's on the trailer and it maintains the batteries. Absolutely take the boating course - Coast Guard Aux. or Power Squadron (call the Coast Guard or a local community college if you don't find one another way). It's a great boat - hope you enjoy it.
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