WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR" - Page 3

THEFERMANATOR · #21 12-25-2006, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheTinMan

I don't know of ANY 20' boat that I'd WANT to to do 30mph in TRUE 3-4'ers *:-/

I was out one day in it in 6 footers running a verified 31 MPH. 32+ would put you on the floor, and less than 29 would do the same. But at 31-31.7 it would glide over them(only heard the prop a little). I've been told I'm a bit nut's, but what the hey. I'm one of those idiots that's been 7 miles out in a 14' aluminum Jon boat in the midlle of the night to go troll behind the shrimp boats ;D. Or go 30 miles out in a 19 footer when 50 footers stay in port. I'm that guy 8).

macojoe · #22 12-26-2006, 12:29 AM

As much as I love my V20, if you have a HYDRA-SPORT that will do 30+ in a 4 footers then you better stay with it.

Cause that isn't going to happen in a V20!!

V20 will get you home no problem!! But not fast like that!!

reelapeelin · #23 12-26-2006, 11:03 AM

30 MPH in a true 4' sea ain't even doable in my friend's 28' cat ... well I guess doable, but it would BEAT the CRAP outta ya and where's the sense in that?? ... take MJ's advise above ::) ...

phatdaddy · #24 12-26-2006, 12:30 PM

I had a 21 hydra-sport (kevlar) w a 235 evinrude and it would fly!!! I don't know about 3 to 4 ft, but it took rough water very well. It was also the driest CC I have ever been on. It would throw the spray 40 ft away and flat. With the 235, I was going so fast the spray never hit you. The reason I replaced it with the V-20 was the cuddy, needed room for baby stuff. The only real problems I had was the "V" was too much. I was doing a lot of diving then and when you sat on the gunnell with a set of gear on, you would almost dip the side under water. Mine also had no splashwell and a low transom. I also felt the sides in the rear were a little to low for bottom fishing. It is a great riding hull.

THEFERMANATOR · #25 12-27-2006, 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatdaddy

I had a 21 hydra-sport (kevlar) w a 235 evinrude and it would fly!!! *I don't know about 3 to 4 ft, but it took rough water very well. *It was also the driest CC I have ever been on. *It would throw the spray 40 ft away and flat. *With the 235, I was going so fast the spray never hit you. *The reason I replaced it with the V-20 was the cuddy, needed room for baby stuff. *The only real problems I had was the "V" was too much. *I was doing a lot of diving then and when you sat on the gunnell with a set of gear on, you would almost dip the side under water. *Mine also had no splashwell and a low transom. *I also felt the sides in the rear were a little to low for bottom fishing. *It is a great riding hull.

My 20' HYDRA-SPORT has the high sides and I have a 250HP YAMAHA to go on it when I redo the transom. My buddy who convinced me to get the HYDRA-S{PORT has an 86DC 20' with a 225HP JOHNSON and that is the one I took on the rough water in. But I now have a significant other that wants to go boatin with me, so I think the V-20 will prevail. And I don't beat myself up on the water like I used to either(broke to many boats in my life for only being 26), plus I'm disabled from a car crash and my body aint what it used to be. And when I say 4 foot seas I mean from the bottom of the trough to the top of the crest. Now if it was 4' with a short wave duration, no way would I be running that fast.

For those of you that have I/O's in your V-20's, do your transoms have wood all the way across or just in the center? The model on mine according to the coast guard placard is a V-20 I/O, yet it came with a sea-drive. Giving serious thought to making my 140HP EVINRUDE into a 25" shaft and mounting on a bracket to the back of this V-20. It should provide good performance and decent economy.

macojoe · #26 12-27-2006, 02:34 AM

Mine use to be a I/O and I have a full transom of wood. I added a Stainless Marine bracket with full swim platform.

Had a 175 Yamaha when I did it , now a 175 Evinrude

I did all the work myself. Wasn't that bad eaither!

willy · #27 12-27-2006, 03:20 AM

I'm a little confused, can't figure out how it would not have wood across the whole transom. Mine is the exact same boat one year newer and I know it has wood along the sides of the transom because I drilled thru it to install my thru bolted aux engine bracket.
Ferminator you might want to check it out, I have a sneaky feeling you are in error on that.
Also if you decide for some reason to redo the transom do it with divinacell or marine wood, the sea cast has had a lot of problems for people who have used it..
But again if you have a sea drive boat and it sounds like you do, you will probably find it is more than strong enough for a bracket and V6 outboard. Your only concern will probably be buoyancy of the hull with a heavy outboard when rocking in a swell stem/stern. Make sure you go with a bracket that has good sealed buoyancy, and don't go with too long of a set back.
Mine for example is a V4 two stroke and though my engine has not dunked once it has come close in some heavy drift thru standing wave action we have around here. The boats I have seen and driven with a bracket and the heavier engines tend to dunk the motor more.. Just a thought.

reelapeelin · #28 12-27-2006, 11:45 AM

Your boat's placard says I/O, yet it's sittin' there w/a Sea-Drive hangin' off the stern...sounds like as that hull went down the factory assembly-line as an I/O, it was diverted to the Sea-Drive assembly by mistake ... apparently it hasn't caused any probs, but if ya decide to ''go bracket'' especially ''full'', then you'll probably wanna add some more reinforcement ... provided all else is right w/ that hull, it'll sure be a worthwile conversion
;) 8) ...

Willy mentioned dunkin' ... a good way to avoid that is to get an outboard w/ a long shaft ... this will put the power-head higher above the water and less likely to ''dunk'' ;) ...

THEFERMANATOR · #29 12-28-2006, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reelapeelin

Your boat's placard says I/O, yet it's sittin' there w/a Sea-Drive hangin' off the stern...sounds like as that hull went down the factory assembly-line as an I/O, it was diverted to the Sea-Drive assembly by mistake

This is what I think happened as well. It says right on the placard MODEL V20 I/O, yet it has a sea-drive on it. There are no signs inside of a patch job whatsoever, and the main piece of wood is between the stringer section of the transom. There is a section of wood also where the swim platform is thru-bolted, but there isn't wood across the whole port section of the transom. I removed the tube that the transducer wire passes thru and there is no signs nor traces of wood there. I've got the 140 in my sig to put on it, but it's a 20" shaft so I'll have to try and find the parts to make it a 25" shaft. It has performed well on every boat I've had it on(pushes the 19' bow-rider to low 50's, and pushed my old 19' ANGLER CC to low 40's), and gets decent economy. Just trying to decide If I should try it first or just bite the bullet and redo the transom with COOSA(read some bad reports of divinycell over on classicmako), but I don't know how well it would work with the curved transom.

THEFERMANATOR · #30 01-06-2007, 12:32 PM

I got a chance yesterday to compare the transom of my V-20 to an 85 V-20 with a sea-drive on it, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! There was hardly no comparision between the two. Mine has a square piece of wood in the transom, it had a u-shaped piece. It also had some very heavy support braces(knees) running from the top of the transom and tied into the stringers at the bottom. It also appeare to have a thicker transon than mine by about a 1/2". I'm convinced now that I have an I/O transom and not the sea-drive transom. But then again, mine was built in 83 for the 84 model year and they might not had braced the transom until later on.