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  #21  
Unread 08-07-2012, 03:33 PM
bksah2 bksah2 is offline
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LAKEMI Iam confused are you saying that you are running 100to1 full throlled with no damaged to your outboard
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  #22  
Unread 08-07-2012, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bksah2 View Post
LAKEMI Iam confused are you saying that you are running 100to1 full throlled with no damaged to your outboard
He's not running a conventional 2 stroke oil though, so don't mix 100:1 on regular 2 stroke oil. AMSOIL makes there saber oil that they say you can run a t100:1 in 50:1 engines without damage, but many have blown there engines running it this way and is why I never tried it.
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  #23  
Unread 08-07-2012, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue_Runner View Post
I use Pennzoil but not the sythetic stuff. It is the one called XLF. About $20 /gal. I am running a 150hp Yamaha 2 stroke oil injection with around 500 - 600 hours.
That's the same stuff I got.


Genie Aye, If I had a high tech motor like an Opti or an Etec I would run a better oil. But my motor is a 1990 225 carbed Yamaha. And I use a lot more that 5 gallons a year. If I puke a rod because of lack of lube I will go back to Yamalube.

I hate to tell ya Ferm but HPDI's require the same Yamalube that every other yamaha requires, 2M. It's nothing special, no magic going on there just 6 oil lines, one behind each reed block. There is also a little fed to the vst to lube the fuel pump and that's it
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  #24  
Unread 08-07-2012, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by captpete13 View Post
That's the same stuff I got.


Genie Aye, If I had a high tech motor like an Opti or an Etec I would run a better oil. But my motor is a 1990 225 carbed Yamaha. And I use a lot more that 5 gallons a year. If I puke a rod because of lack of lube I will go back to Yamalube.

I hate to tell ya Ferm but HPDI's require the same Yamalube that every other yamaha requires, 2M. It's nothing special, no magic going on there just 6 oil lines, one behind each reed block. There is also a little fed to the vst to lube the fuel pump and that's it
It's still best to run a DFI oil with ring free and anti-varnish build-up in it. That was one of teh HUGE downfalls of teh early FICHTS was the use of regular 2 stroke oil and the carbon build-up that came with it.
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  #25  
Unread 08-08-2012, 12:49 PM
LakeMiV20 LakeMiV20 is offline
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Originally Posted by bksah2 View Post
LAKEMI Iam confused are you saying that you are running 100to1 full throlled with no damaged to your outboard
No need to be confused, I am indeed running Amsoil Saber Outboard premix at 100:1 and have had no problems. I also only run pure gas at 90 octane, and do not put any ethanol blend in any of my motors. Here is how good Amsoil is in my experience; I ran my 2003 Ski-Doo snowmobile, 700cc mototor, about 135HP, clean out of oil and was running about 80MPH across a hayfield in northern MI, turning about 7800rpm on the tach. (The out of oil part is a much longer however embarrassing story). The motor seized at 80MPH as I was thrown into the handlebars and came to a dead stop; the motor locked up tight. I had Amsoil Interceptor 2-stroke oil in the motor. After about 10 mins the motor came lose and I drug the sled home, tail between my legs. At home tearing down the motor, I all had to replace was the mag side piston rings and hone that cylinder. NO scuff on the cylinder wall or piston, and the PTO cylinder was just fine. Amsoil as a lubricant is just that good, and is arguably the best synthetic on the market, not to mention they have been doing it the longest. They also have a tremendous engineering department that welcomes challenges to the quality of their product in addition to claims of failures and burn downs. I think the claim that that has been many burn downs using Saber outboard at 100:1 is false. Lots of folks run it up here.
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  #26  
Unread 08-09-2012, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by LakeMiV20 View Post
; I ran my 2003 Ski-Doo snowmobile, 700cc mototor, about 135HP, clean out of oil and was running about 80MPH across a hayfield in northern MI, turning about 7800rpm on the tach. (The out of oil part is a much longer however embarrassing story). The motor seized at 80MPH as I was thrown into the handlebars and came to a dead stop; the motor locked up tight. I had Amsoil Interceptor 2-stroke oil in the motor. After about 10 mins the motor came lose and I drug the sled home, tail between my legs. At home tearing down the motor, I all had to replace was the mag side piston rings and hone that cylinder. NO scuff on the cylinder wall or piston, and the PTO cylinder was just fine. Amsoil as a lubricant is just that good, and is arguably the best synthetic on the market, not to mention they have been doing it the longest. They also have a tremendous engineering department that welcomes challenges to the quality of their product in addition to claims of failures and burn downs.
I have had my Doo 1000 do the same thing---brought it home--new rings and pistons(for saftey) and put her together and got another season before selling the sled-----But I was running ----Redline full synthetic race oil. Any quality oil will do the job---in 40 years--I have seen very few oil related faliures from the lubricant.
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  #27  
Unread 08-09-2012, 05:55 AM
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I'm pre-mixing w/the 2.4 Merc...just getting finished w/a tank of fuel w/Pennzoil Synthetic BLEND...and have two gals of Merc oil to follow on next fill...the Merc oil is 19.99 at Academy Sports all the time...
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  #28  
Unread 10-09-2012, 11:44 AM
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We are always running WOT in the 19' Starcraft. only a 800 Redstripe, I use the full synthetic like the smokeless attributes of it . I mix 16 oz to 10 Gallons & run Sunoco 93 Octane. Either Lucas or Penzoil. works good .

Running around the inland lakes have to get to where your going. Out on the Great lakes we run 3/4 throttle. around 30mph.
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  #29  
Unread 10-09-2012, 12:07 PM
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All sounds good, but most motors are made to run 89 octane and you just waste the $$$ on the better stuff.
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