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  #21  
Unread 11-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CJSCustoms View Post
Thanks for the great info. guys.

Thanks Nipper we're real happy with the way the teak is coming back to life. The next thing on my list for wood work is getting the gauge bezel made. But before we map out the bezel I want to find the set of gauges that we are going to use. Anyone know of a company that sells white faced gauges, with red back light and a gold outer ring?

Google Faria Gauges Chesapeake series, I have them on mine and am happy with them.
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  #22  
Unread 11-12-2012, 01:17 AM
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Well I got back into it and am finally tackling the transom rebuild! Here's a few pics if it works. Just the basic cut the cap off and the rear of the floor. The stringers and floor look great so I will not be touching them.

I have a buddy who has a pretty good past of fixing old boats and he is going to help me lay in the new wood and glass. I am stoked as this is my first dive into fiberglass. We will be building it up to 25 inches as well while we are there.
image.jpg
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  #23  
Unread 11-12-2012, 01:29 AM
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Glad to see you are still at it a year later!! As others have said, You will have a great time when done!
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  #24  
Unread 11-12-2012, 01:39 AM
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I have been back and forth with either getting rid of it or fixing it since I got my 16' Starcraft. But I won't let it get the best of me now and I intend on seeing it through so I can fish off mah own boat next salmon season! Plus there is not a whole lotta room on my small boat lol.
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  #25  
Unread 11-12-2012, 07:27 AM
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Hang in there. Nice start, teak looks great. Good stringers, that is certainly good news. It won't take that long to get it done. Welcome to the site too, wealth of knowledge here on these boats.
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  #26  
Unread 11-16-2012, 12:04 PM
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Thought I would post some more pics of the work I have done cuz everyone likes pictures!
photo (2).jpg

photo (3).jpg

photo (4).JPG

photo.JPG
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  #27  
Unread 11-16-2012, 12:29 PM
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looks like you getting a good start on the rebuild!!
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  #28  
Unread 11-16-2012, 04:49 PM
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looks good, one thing, while you have it open, make sure to seal the drains in the stringers. that's the notches in the bottom of the stringer where they meet the transom. they allow any water that gets in the hull migrate to the bilge. wellcraft did a pretty good job of encapsulating the stringers, but then drilled holes for drains and did not seal the raw wood. that,'s usually where the rot starts.
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  #29  
Unread 11-17-2012, 12:52 AM
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I think I get what you are saying. Glass the stringer top to bottom at the joint where it meets the transom? I was wondering why they notched like that!
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  #30  
Unread 11-17-2012, 11:23 AM
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i was refering to the little triangle notch at the bottom of the stringer, where the end meets the transom. there needs to be a way for water to get to the keel from the upper stringers. mine is an 85 abd they just drilled some holes with a hole saw to allow water to pass. all they had to do was take a small dab of resin and coat the exposed raw wood. they did paint it grey, but a dab of resin would have prevented a lot of grief
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