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#11
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there's a slight curve and then the chine is there also. I'm on duty today so I can't take more pics. but will be attacking this over the weelend. I'm hoping it won't be too hard. Last owner poured resin into the bottum of the boat and I got carried away grinding it out. I just want it to be right and pretty also and worry I'm reaching the edge of my knowledge.
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#12
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this is the resin
![]() it's called boatyard and I think it's made by evercoat Good stuff 12 drops mpk/1oz resin. set up well even in the high heat yesterday. my only concern was this am 0600 hrs it was still a bit tacky but dry to the touch if that makes any sense. $30.00 a gallon comes with the hardener. |
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#13
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It can be fixed!!
But could you have picked a more difficult spot?
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#14
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I don't think so. At least it will be a good learning experience!!!! ;D
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#15
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My fiberglass skills are so poor that I would have to remove that motor, windshield, steering wheel and rotate the boat to keep the glass in place while it cures.
Let me find what we did with a 16' boat in the posts.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#16
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JESUS CHRIST,IT TOOK ME 10 MINUTES TO GET BACK TO THIS POST. Anyway.
This is what we used to repair the bottom of a 16' Ashcraft ripoff. It may be a little hairey on a 20' boat. ![]() All we did was back the boat between two trees, hoist the front above the trailer, loop a chain around this at the rear and hoist it high enough to get the trailer out. One person could easily rotate the boat. Oh attach to the lower bolt holes.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#17
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i hate to say it to you but that is not the resin you want for under water patches. that is cheap grade resin and what ever thay call for in hardner double it at least or it may never set up. since it has a slight curve lay some wax paper inside the hull and then lay out some glass in a couple layers then once it sets up pick it up and pill the wax paper off the glass part you made now you need to fit it to where it fits tight in the hole you have and then glass patch it in on both sides around the cut line and once glassed in you need to lay a full layer of glass over both sides of the hole and the insert you made. make sure the inside piece can be much larger than the hole but the out side needs to be at least 4 to 6 inches over the hole size all the way around. does this make since?
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May everyone be blessed with "Tight Lines"... Fish On................ |
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#18
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Skools, is it any way possible to educate us on the different resins.
When doing my transom I found a wide difference in price between manufacturers. We stuck with one that said "marine polyester resin" and used it. Don't make sence that the prices are different if the product is the same? I've always went on the assumption that "fiberglass is fiberglass".
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#19
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well you are right glass is glass but resin is a while another story
the best resin to use and usually the cheapest is to look up a close boat builder and go to them and buy the resin they use directly from the builders most all will sell stuff with a 2 to 5 percent over their cost price. i'll try to find the link i had about resin and what to use where.
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May everyone be blessed with "Tight Lines"... Fish On................ |
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#20
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here ya go
RESIN TYPES - THEIR ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES There are several types of resins that Fiberglass Coatings offers. This page is a high level look at the advantages and disadvantages of each resin. If you need more detail please call one of our technical support representatives to get all of your questions answered. NSR or Boatyard Inexpensive Highly inhibited for longer shelf life Stays liquid longer Shouldn't be used below the waterline Shows cosmetic defects GP Marine Highly inhibited for longer shelf life Fast wet-out A good industrial laminating resin Water can bleed through and cause blisters or laminating problems Boat Builder or Low Profile Designed for boats that don't stay in the water Higher heat temperature distortion Better water resistance Low shrink - good cosmetically Isophthalic Corrosion resistance Good chemical resistance High strength Vinylester High water barrier resistance Better bonding strength Helps to prevent osmotic blistering Better physical strength Orthophthalic (GP100) Absorbs less water Shrinks less - good cosmetically Good for hand wet-out Can be used above or below the waterline Clear Casting Colorless and clear as ice Used for casting and embedding Surfboard Clear, wax free Designed for surf and sail board building or repair
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May everyone be blessed with "Tight Lines"... Fish On................ |
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