Whats it worth

The motor does try to turn over. I think the motor is solid.

The previous owner had a compression check done on the motor shortly before we bought it from him. The compression check passed with flying colors. I don't know the exact numbers off hand, but I have them documented at home with some of the paper work that came with the boat.

I spoke with the boatyard in jersey that did all the work on the boat. I got a copy of all receipts of all work ever done on the boat while owned by the previous owner. From what i understand the boat is mechincally solid engine and outdrive wise.

Most of my problems have come from wiring, tilt/trim motor, or self inflicted problems. Minus the under dash wiring issue, everything else has been fixed or replaced.

[Blue_Runner]

Sounds like you need to have the starter rebuilt?

No No, there is no issue with any of that. The starter turns. The boat would start if I opened the fuel line to the gas tanks.

Everything is fine right now except the wires under the dash. The dash was cracked and broken, so I made a new one from some plexi-glass variant, lexon or something. I used the old one as a template and cut out a new one, painted the back black, and installed it. When I did, I did a dumb.

Since I had the wiring diagram, I didn't worry about marking any of the gauges or wires. I just disconnected them all. When I went to reconnect them, that is when I discovered that the gauges had been replaced with different ones and whats behind my dash in no way matches the wiring diagram for the original boat. Gauges are different, wire colors are different, etc... I got the AMP gauge connected and the ignition working, but thats all I can figure out. That is the only thing wrong with the boat right now.

I have not run the motor because someone told me that I could not start the motor with the outdrive at the high angle it was at without breaking a gimble or something. Since the tilt/trim pump was not working at the time, I had to replace that. I have since found out that is incorrect.

I also decided I was going to remove the gas tanks, inspect, repair, and clean them. Took 2 weeks to do it right. I also ran new fuel lines.

Then I figured if I wanted to start the motor and put the boat in gear to check the outdrive (which according to the boatyard has a new lower unit and is solid) that I had better change the outdrive oil.

According to the boat yard that did the work on the boat before I got it, it is ready to go. I did a tune-up anyways (oil, plugs, filters).

Now I am ready to start it up this weekend, but I am worried. Someone else is telling me that I should change the water pump before starting it up. I had no concerns about whether or not the water pump was faulty till this person mentioned it. Since the temp gauge is not working, I am hesitate to start the boat now. I assume the water pump is fine, but how can I be sure.



::)

[Franco]

Can I put my 2 cents worth in? First I would consider buying your partners intrest in the boat. It sounds like your a capable guy with tools. Maybe you just need some help. I'm gonna be very basic in describing what I would do. Please dont take offense if I sound like I'm talking down to you. Just dont know what your knowledge base is in wiring. Here goes....Wiring is like plumbing, electricity flows like water through a pipe. You need to get a Volt/Ohm meter first. You can get one for under 20 bucks. Set the meter to ohms - measuring ohms test continuity of a circut or wire. It tells you if it can pass voltage thru the wire. Connect one end of the meter to the wire connected to the sending unit. It wont mater which sending unit you do first. Fuel level, oil pressure, and coolant pressure gauges all require a sending unit. After hooking the meter to the wire at the sending unit, take the other lead from the meter and touch the connector of each wire to check for continuity. Most times the wire color at the sending unit matches the wire color at the gauge. When you find the right color, make a label ( out of masking tape even ) and label the wire. You will also need to find out which wires get voltage when the ignition is turned on. Just set the meter to DC volts and measure away. Also labe them. You will also have to find the battery negative - or ground wires - labe them also. You need to find out which wire gets voltage when you turn on your navigation lights, labe it too.Oil pressure, temp and fuel gauges will most often have at least 3 studs. One post should be Battery positive volts, one will be for the sending unit connection, and the last is for a battery negative or ground. That ground is usually for the lamp circut. Sometimes there will be one for the light also,but it can also be a pop in socket. This is how the gauges work - They get voltage from the ignition switch ( all the gauges get voltage from the same wire) voltage passes thru the gauge looking for a ground signal - that signal comes from the sending unit. The sending unit is kinda like a volume knob ( by function ) on a radio - It allows either more or less voltage pass thru the sending unit - depending on it's readind ( high oil pressure or low oil pressure, etc ) to the ground signal. The stronger the ground signal, the more the gauge moves. The oil pressure and water temp sending units get thier ground signal by screwing into the engine block, which is also grounded. The fuel gauge has a seperate wire running directly to ground, usuall the engie also. There ussallu a third wire at the fuel sending unit also, it should go the the fuel filler, to keep sparks from happeninh, it will also go to other components a lot of times, helping control corrision too. Once you have the wires labeled, it should be fairy straight forward to attach them to the gauges. When they are all connected you can test them by disconnecting one wire at a time from sending unit, take another wire, connect it to the negative battery post. Have your helper turn on the ignition, momentarily touch the grounding wire to the gauge wire - have your helper watch the gauge - it should peg to the maxium if it is connected correctly. I would look at the raw water supply pump before I started it, I have a volvo I?O in my boat. I can remove 4 screws and pull a cover to get to my pump - not sure how your is accessed. If it looks good, put a light coat of grease on it, put it back in. Check the oil, turn on the gas, hook up the water hose and fire that puppy up. Keep an eye on your gauges, look for leaks, listen for odd noises, make sure watter is passing thru - if its all checks out, go fishing. Sorry to be long winded - hope it helps

:)
Wow, that is by far one of the most helpful posts I have ever read here. Thank you for you time, that was a lot to write.

It has helped immensely as I had no idea how to wire the gauges. I can do the starter, starter solenoid, alternator, battery, solenoid, etc...but not the gauges. Now understanding the posts and how to test the gauge really helps.

Thank you again. :)

[Franco]

Glad to help. IM me if you need more help. Check out my gallery, I think I have a few posts of the wiring I did on my V20

[steplift20]

whats it worth hmmm, its a steplift, id say ask 100,000.00 ITS A STEPLIFT PRICELESS ;D

[reelapeelin]

Wow, Franco...that's a really good post...learned a lot, myself... ;D...