Newb Questions About 1984 Wellcraft Sportsman 228

[A ReelCool Chick]

Hi everyone!

New member (though I've been lurking & learning for a bit here and on Hull Truth) and new to boating. I just bought my first boat, a semi-project '84 Wellcraft Sportsman 228 (I say semi-project because she runs, but I need to do some work). She sports a rebuilt Evinrude 225 on a bracket and Lenco trim tabs.

I'm looking to learn all I can about her, and have some questions (one is kinda crazy) to ask:

1. I can't find any catalog information on the 1984, but a decent amount on the 1985. Are they essentially the same boat? What improvements/modifications are there from one model year to the next?

2. (Insert crazy question here) Looking at the pic below of the dash panel, I'm trying to identify the switches. I know and have tested the spotlight and controls, I'm not sure the electric primer works and one switch is for the side lights...but how do I determine which switch is for the bilge (especially if the bilge is inoperable)?

[bradford]

There probably weren't any major changes hull wise between the model years. There probably were some changes to accessories though as Wellcraft shopped different suppliers, and rigged different boats with different options, not to mention all the different changes made by previous owners in the last 31 years.

A test light and multi meter are in your future. If you get the Sunday paper Harbor Frieght usually runs an ad where they give them away with a coupon. Or if you're wanting to know right now, switch everything on and off and stick your head down in the bilge and listen for it, a light humming sound. If it doesn't work, it could likely be a broken wire or loose connection. Eliminate that possibility first before you go shopping at West Marine.

Welcome!! I always liked the Sportsmans and Offshore models. The 228 seems like it would be a lot more trailer friendly than the 248/250 models.

[A ReelCool Chick]

Thanks bradford!

I've been eyeballing Wellcrafts for a while, and when I realized that a WA better suited my needs...here I am.

I will get the multimeter and test light this weekend. I've been reading everything I can, and just ordered the 12v Bible.

Super stoked!

[scook]

Welcome. Those switches look a little tired from long service - could be bad inside from corrosion but probably one of the things Bradford said. You can check the switch for continuity with your new multimeter. Others may have other suggestions about connections when you are doing wiring, but I suggest spending a few bucks to get a good crimper and some heat shrink connectors (after crimping, you hit them with a heat gun to shrink the plastic protective sleeve and activate some goo inside that seals it tight).

Something else I did on my '85 was to remove any wiring I found to not be doing anything. On a boat that age, there have probably been several generations of electronics and on mine, thy left the old wiring - on separate occassions I pulled out a 5 gal. bucket pretty near full of unused wire. It makes it MUCH easier to trace out the working wiring, but if in doubt, don't take it out.

A suggestion about Harbor freight - pay for the extended warranty (their prices will still be unbelievably cheap and their standard warranty is short). You can get a heat gun there cheap too.

[Destroyer]

Like the others, allow me to say welcome to the site. Always happy to see a new member. As to your (not) so crazy question, I'm going to go out on a limb here. You asked which switch in the picture is for the bilge pump. My (semi-educated) guess is that it's the one directly below the 12V cigarette lighter outlet. My reasoning is this: Most bilge pumps have 2 settings, manual and automatic. Plus most setups have a light to indicate when the pump is running. For that reason most bilge pump switches are independent of the rest of the switches for horn, lights, etc. The only switch configuration that seems to fit that bill is the one I mentioned. So that would be my guess.

See if the switch moves both up and down, and also see if that light next to it comes on in either direction.
The manual switch is for when you want to override the automatic for whatever reason.
The automatic position goes through a float switch located in the bilge near the bilge pump and turns the pump on or off depending on the level of water in the bilge.

And just remember that due to corrosion, broken wire, etc. even though you may have correctly identified the switch, the pump may not work.

[A ReelCool Chick]

You guys have no idea how much I'm appreciating this feedback and the welcome!

scook: I'm eventually going to do a wiring diagram for her...I'll start in a few weeks, but probably won't finish until a few weeks after. The wiring is a Charlie Foxtrot, so hopefully I can cull out some old stuff like you advised. I will absolutely not remove anything until I'm sure it's without a source/load.

Destroyer: That switch is the only thing I know for sure, and it's to control the spotlight....switches on, and the silver knob turns the light. I still appreciate your guess! From what I've read, and like you said, most bilges have the auto/off/manual switch, and that's what is concerning me: I don't see anything like that on the dash...and I have two bilges.

Maybe the bilges are straight auto or manual? Is that possible?