Wits end 1992 Dodge D150

[tsubaki]

I'll take that as you could view the video!

[smokeonthewater]

Yeah... It says image moved but the play button is there and works.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Have you tried unplugging the crank sensor and cam sensor when it does it? Those are teh 2 biggies that the 5 volt reference feed. If it still does it, then unplug them, plus the MAP, TPS, CTS, and IAT Try isolating the PCM back to just power and ground to eliminate as much of the vehicle as you can. Also, does this truck have a tach? I'm wondering if the tach shows the RPM's or not when it fires the coil. Lastly, it may be worth swapping the ASD relay with another. The ASD circuit is what powers the coil and injectors, and it could be energizing when the PCM is not commanding it to and casing some issues.

[cfelton]

Never mess with Dodges but it sounds like a computer problem to me.

[tsubaki]

I'm going to need to do like you and smoke suggest, make up a sequence, go through it and write it down in order to describe it correctly.
No tach on the truck.
Swapping the ASD and fuel pump relays did nothing different, nor did replacing them.

This is the way I remember it the very first time we started looking for this problem:
It would crank up and run for a few seconds then shut off. Leaving the ignition on you could hear the arcing in the distributor.
If you unplugged the DIP (cam sensor) the noise would go away. Reconnecting the DIP sensor before turning the ignition off, the engine would not start.
Turning the ignition off and then reconnecting the DIP sensor, the engine would crank up and run for a few seconds then shut off.
The sensor then got replaced but the problem persisted.
Doing this too many times would flood the cylinders.

We then thought the CPS (crank sensor) may need replacing and did so, the problem was still there after replacing it. We did not go through any sequence of tests with it.

Replacing the PCM seemed the next appropriate candidate, after doing so the problem was still there.
Now the aggravation really begins. After sitting a week or so and checking wire connections literally everywhere beneath the hood and dash, the damn thing cranks up and runs fine for a few months.
Then we start this cycle again at least 3 more times but replacing more different parts.

Another PCM is scheduled to be here today, hopefully I'll be able to get together an actual written test sequence.
Amongst doing other things.

Thanks guys! I do appreciate it.

[THEFERMANATOR]

When it does run, do you get any trouble codes? Next time you start it up, unplug the cam sensor and see what happens. It should stay running after the engine has started. It sure sounds like your shorting your 5 volt reference to power somewhere from this description as that is the only thing I oculd think of that would cause it to engage the drivers like this. I do know the SBEC was funny about to much resistance on a hall effect type sensor, and is one of the reasons CHRYSLER swapped to JTEC for 96 as it had dual power supplies in it VS the SBEC's single.

[macojoe]

Matches are real cheap!!