New Member - Possible '75 restore

[Liam]

Originally Posted by brywheat

I would like to make a full transom with a bracket. Should the old skin be cut out to make the transom straight & not curved?
Any info would be great!

The transom curve is retained and you build the bracket to match the curve,or if you are having the bracket built for you the manufacturer will need a template.
I am not sure what power you currently have but if an I/O be aware that the area around the drive is actually flat and made up from seperate pieces of ply.
I just rebuilt the transom in my 73 I/O. The original transom was made from one sheet of 3/4 ply curved and then 2 layered pieces of 3/4 around the keyhole.I rebuilt mine with 2 layers of 1/2 inch for the full transom with 2 pieces of 1/2 and a pice of 3/4 around the keyhole. All the layers were brought together by sandwiching glass cloth between the layers,this allowed for the transition between the flat section and the curved area.
If you are planning on hanging a bracket then plan on making the new transom at least 3 layers of 3/4,and plan on cutting out the outer glass around the keyhole and rebuilding that area to follow the curve as you will not need a flat area if there is no outdrive to hang.
Hopefully this is clear,its kinda hard to describe in words.
You do however always work from the inside ,you need to leave the outer skin of the transom intact to keep the hull sides aligned

[phatdaddy]

if you don't already have the hull, i'd look for a center console model. what you are wanting to do sounds like too much sugar for a dime.

[brywheat]

Originally Posted by Liam

The transom curve is retained and you build the bracket to match the curve,or if you are having the bracket built for you the manufacturer will need a template.
I am not sure what power you currently have but if an I/O be aware that the area around the drive is actually flat and made up from seperate pieces of ply.
I just rebuilt the transom in my 73 I/O. The original transom was made from one sheet of 3/4 ply curved and then 2 layered pieces of 3/4 around the keyhole.I rebuilt mine with 2 layers of 1/2 inch for the full transom with 2 pieces of 1/2 and a pice of 3/4 around the keyhole. All the layers were brought together by sandwiching glass cloth between the layers,this allowed for the transition between the flat section and the curved area.
If you are planning on hanging a bracket then plan on making the new transom at least 3 layers of 3/4,and plan on cutting out the outer glass around the keyhole and rebuilding that area to follow the curve as you will not need a flat area if there is no outdrive to hang.
Hopefully this is clear,its kinda hard to describe in words.
You do however always work from the inside ,you need to leave the outer skin of the transom intact to keep the hull sides aligned

Liam

Its an outboard model, 1975. transom is curved besides where the original outboard would hang
I know its going to be a long pricy project. But the hull is free, and i really love the v20 hull

[brywheat]

Can i cut the old skins out and make a flat transom? Figured a bracket could be found second hand cheaper and easier if it was a straight flat transom, maybe im overthinking, or maybe i should just make it 25" and call it good?
Any input is welcomed.

I know , all my friends think im nuts for even wanting to do this but i really dont expect it to come out looking like a new hatteras

[brywheat]

Originally Posted by phatdaddy

if you don't already have the hull, i'd look for a center console model. what you are wanting to do sounds like too much sugar for a dime.

Yeah she needs ALOT of work. but this is a learning curve for me. I have access to glass & epoxy, ply pretty cheap. And my girlfriend likes the idea of a project that keeps me at the house. Little does she know how much Ill be in the house once the fun begins

Oh and the hull is free with a nice 2006 loadrite trailer, Ill be picking it up either way for the trailer, just didnt want to take the hull to the dump

[Liam]

For the most part brackets are custom made to a hull,its not just the curve that is the issue,the deadrise of the bracket,height at which the motor will mount,amount of flotation built into the bracket are all going to be engineered specifically to the hull on which it is to be mounted.
There is such a thing as a gill bracket but they offer no flotation which would likely be an issue. "Stainless marine" brackets may be another option that may be a slightly more generic fit, I have never looked into them personally but did own a hydra sport with one on,they are not as wide as say an "Armstrong" bracket.
I know there have been a few guys on here that added brackets,hopefully they can add some advice.

[spoggy]

Hi, I'm new here too! Good luck!

Steve

[Destroyer]

Hello Spoggy Welcome aboard.

[brywheat]

Hey
gutted most of the rotten floor today
The previous ower did a horribe restore at one point. . Good intentions. Raised the floor above the water line. Horrible approach.. screwed 2"x12" the factory stringers running on the inside and nothing was glassed.. floor inclued.. good news is the tank was replaced
Dimensions make it about 115 gallons..
Have a few concerns about the curved transom and building it up. Really want to make it full with a bracket. I'll try and get pics up. If I figure out how. Any input is always appreciated! !

[brywheat]

Almost have the cap & old floor out. . It's coming along but have new questions about the inner/outer skins. Are they laminated together? What should the inside off the outter skin look like? Looks rough ... guess I need to figure out these pics. . Should this go in the repair forum?