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  #11  
Unread 11-13-2012, 12:10 PM
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ferm would this kit fix Stinks and mine as well? mine does it slightly time to time, it's a 99 as well...

http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes
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  #12  
Unread 11-13-2012, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Skools Out View Post
ferm would this kit fix Stinks and mine as well? mine does it slightly time to time, it's a 99 as well...

http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes
That's teh SK kit which is a good kit for daily drivers. If you tow alot or want really crisp shifts go with the HD2 kit. Also chances are your seperator plate will be WELL worn where the checkballs seat against it. The TRANSGO plate is a hardened plate and holds up a bit better than teh stock one does. The SK kit is designed for the professional, so the directions may not be that clear to follow for the average DIY who isn't real familiar with how a valve body works. The HD2 kit is a drop in kit with good directions, and you can buy a video for it as well. And being you both have 99's, the accumlator piston in the valve body should be swapped out for an aluminum one(GM put a plastic one in it, and they stick and crack which will cause a pressure bleed off).
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  #13  
Unread 11-13-2012, 05:46 PM
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took mine to the trans shop today they said they would rebuild the valve body, replace all solenoids, and add shift kit, plus service it for $385
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's
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  #14  
Unread 11-14-2012, 09:48 AM
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Well I talked to a mechanic I really trust, they are top notch folks and he quit building trannys but gave me a number to someone he uses. Im going to take it to him the next couple days to let him drive and pull any codes. Im pretty depressed and thinking my hunting season is pretty well shot as we are pretty tight on $$ right now.


Also noticed this doing some looking. Anyone use anyone online they trust for a newly built one?

http://www.transdepot.net/product.as...FRRbnAodJEoAgA
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  #15  
Unread 11-14-2012, 12:01 PM
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Well I talked to a mechanic I really trust, they are top notch folks and he quit building trannys but gave me a number to someone he uses. Im going to take it to him the next couple days to let him drive and pull any codes. Im pretty depressed and thinking my hunting season is pretty well shot as we are pretty tight on $$ right now.


Also noticed this doing some looking. Anyone use anyone online they trust for a newly built one?

http://www.transdepot.net/product.as...FRRbnAodJEoAgA
Theres not many online places I would trust to rebuild a trans, and the one in your link will not fit yours Stink. Yours is a 2 piece 4L60E as GM went to a removeable bellhousing in 96. Yours is basically a 98 trans even though it is in a 99 as teh GMT-400 tahoe was a carryover for the drivetrain. If you get a 99 it may cause issues as the newer body style uses slightly different valve bodies in them.

And SKOOLS, for $385 I doubt they are using OEM quality solonoids as the last set for a 98 I bought cost about $185 for just the solonoids. I've used aftermarket ones, and everytime they have failed and took the trans out with it. I only use AC DELCO OEM's now.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #16  
Unread 11-16-2012, 12:58 PM
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OK, took it to a good mechanic to get it scanned. Found a few codes that shouldnt have anything to do with what its doing..minor stuff. He drove it and felt the shudder and talked about seals at the convertor that probably needed to be replaced when I did the convertor that could be allowing blowby and fluid getting past? Ferm this make any sense to you? Around the input shaft?
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  #17  
Unread 11-16-2012, 01:29 PM
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stink it's the valve body, that fixed mine, just need your valve body rebuilt.
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's
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  #18  
Unread 11-16-2012, 01:45 PM
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Im taking in to the tranny guy next, just wondering, never heard of this.
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  #19  
Unread 11-16-2012, 02:07 PM
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Did he tell you what the codes were? I need to know what the P code numbers were to tell you what they might mean. And the codes for a 99 5.7L are HORRIBLE for telling you what the problem actually is. RARELY have I seen them throw a code for a bad O2, the ywill normally throw a misfire code when an O2 sensor fails. If there was a P1870 code in it, then the valve body needs to be done first before you go any furthur.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #20  
Unread 11-16-2012, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
Did he tell you what the codes were? I need to know what the P code numbers were to tell you what they might mean. And the codes for a 99 5.7L are HORRIBLE for telling you what the problem actually is. RARELY have I seen them throw a code for a bad O2, the ywill normally throw a misfire code when an O2 sensor fails. If there was a P1870 code in it, then the valve body needs to be done first before you go any furthur.
Best thing we ever did was buy one of those code computers. At $50 a read it doesnt take long to pay for itself......
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