So Here She is - Page 2

Kracker Jack · #11 05-13-2012, 08:13 PM

When I finished my stringers I almost cried when I had to drill 2 holes for my conduit to pass thru!!!!!! so I know what ya mean by cutting into your wood.

tartuffe · #12 05-13-2012, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

When I finished my stringers I almost cried when I had to drill 2 holes for my conduit to pass thru!!!!!! so I know what ya mean by cutting into your wood.

Yeah man, and I don't know how many years Wellcraft did this but I only have 2 stringers and then all those mini bulkheads going from the stringer to the chine so when I cut a big holes in like the factory did then I just weakened one of my primary support structures at a critical area.

If I recall you have what like 5 stringers? Little more structurally redundant design for sure.

phatdaddy · #13 05-13-2012, 11:00 PM

tartuffe,these are a few shots of my tanks. they rest on to of the bulkheads between the cap & the bulkheads. i was limited by the rod box openings, but with the cap off, you could add some more pipe.

this is a shot of the end of the tank (pvc pipe) the smaller pipe sticking up is the fill tube
port side

this is a shot of the starboard side

this is a shot of the pump in the bilge

Kracker Jack · #14 05-14-2012, 06:37 AM

Mine actually had 2 mains and 2 secondarys for a total of 4.

RidgeRunner · #15 05-14-2012, 08:10 AM

At one point I had every plug from my V. I hated to cut all of those holes in all of that fresh glass and paint. All the holes did render one interesting
conversation piece. The one piece I cut out of the console for the switch panel is about 3/8" thick in glass. I don't recall laying it on so thick? The fiberglass is thicker in that part of the console than in some hulls.
I like the idea of multiple PVC rigging tubes. I went with 4" and let it lay on top of the tank. It is pretty full.
I also did not like the way Wellcraft cut the top of the stringers to allow the passage of the rigging tube and fuel fill. The early boats have 4 stringers but do not have self bailing decks or under floor fuel tanks. The grid system of the latter models is sound IMO because they are so tall. The "mini bulkheads" add a lot of torsional strength and help to sturdy the hull sides and stringers. I asked around about the best design, the consensus seemed to think the grid system to be the way to go for overall strength. A lot of V-hulls from race boats to fast fishing rigs that are typically beat to death, have a similar grid system. (Superboat, Progression, Contender, SeeVee etc.)

Great work and fast Tartuffe. There is some dead space fore of the fuel tank bulkhead under the floor of your center console. It is a large enough space for a water tank plus some additional storage. I installed a 13 gallon plastic tank from Todd under there. If it ever ruptures I am SOL because there is no access without removing the liner. I put a false floor and an additional bulkhead there because I was thinking of relocating the batteries.

tartuffe · #16 05-14-2012, 06:21 PM

Damn guys, I ain't ever going to get this thing back on the water. I spend more time figuring out where to put led lights and water tanks, things I never even considered when I embarked on this "transom" rebuild.

I like the PVC tube idea, but my model doesn't have recessed rod boxes so the clearance just isn't there. I went with a larger fuel tank so the clearance isn't there either. I could probably go under the forward fish box along with the spare 20 gallon gas tank. Not a fan of putting another 200 lbs that far forward but heck, when I hit the gulf stream I typically have (6) 5-gallon tanks of gas in the bow and it hasn't been a problem yet.

Crap, I don't want my auxiliary fuel tank near my batteries. Gotta keep thinking.

Really though, its alot of fun. I tell her "leave me alone," I'm going to work on the boat like its my job or something, gotta remind myself its a hobby.

tartuffe · #17 05-14-2012, 06:27 PM

And Ridge, on the subject of fiberglass, it sure is easy to get carried away when "another layer will make it that much better." I've told myself that too many times.

Kracker Jack · #18 05-14-2012, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartuffe

Damn guys, I ain't ever going to get this thing back on the water. I spend more time figuring out where to put led lights and water tanks, things I never even considered when I embarked on this "transom" rebuild.

I like the PVC tube idea, but my model doesn't have recessed rod boxes so the clearance just isn't there. I went with a larger fuel tank so the clearance isn't there either. I could probably go under the forward fish box along with the spare 20 gallon gas tank. Not a fan of putting another 200 lbs that far forward but heck, when I hit the gulf stream I typically have (6) 5-gallon tanks of gas in the bow and it hasn't been a problem yet.

Crap, I don't want my auxiliary fuel tank near my batteries. Gotta keep thinking.

Really though, its alot of fun. I tell her "leave me alone," I'm going to work on the boat like its my job or something, gotta remind myself its a hobby.

are we related? lol!!! you sound just like me!!!! Read my first 6 posts,I was very adimit on making this a work style boat and now im adding leds and trying to make my own underwater lights!!!! and Im painting it with interlux perfection instead of interlux brightside. so my upgrade list keeps getting more and more expensive. And I keep adding more and more.

reelapeelin · #19 05-15-2012, 04:51 AM

Hats off the tartuffe and kracker jack!!...man there is some serious rebiulding goin' on around here...

And hey, tartuffe...wouldn't it be great if we could drawa paycheck for all the hours we put into these things!!...

tartuffe · #20 05-25-2012, 07:12 AM

Ridge, when you reinstalled those outside bulkheads, how did you attach them?

I've done 2 of the 10 by bedding them in PB with a nice filet and then applying 3 layers of 17 oz biax (epoxy) at 4", 6" and 10" widths. Reading more I see the guru's on other sites saying foam bedding of bulkheads. Beginning to second guess if I should do the others like that or carry on with what I am doing.

Anybody else have an opinion or advice? Keep in mind there are 5 of these down each side going from the top of the stringers to about 5" above the chime and over 2 strakes.

Also, when you replaced the cap, did you put a layer of putty over the grid as was done originally? If so what did you use? I'm thinking I may want to be able to remove this cap again one day.....in 30 years.