![]() |
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
|
Great & timley post. I have a question, as I am getting ready to redo my fuel tank hatch. I noticed that you did not cut the access holes until after you glassed? I was thinking of cutting them first, so I could seal them up when I glassed. Interested to know your thoughts and/or what others have done. (i.e., Cut the access holes first and then glass or wait until after you glass?) Thanks, Jim
__________________
1983 V20 Cuddy |
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
On my new hatch I have no access hatches, instead have hinged the hatch to open completely for better inspection, and less chance for water intrusion to the hatch core.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
Interesting. Do you have any pics of your hatch you could share? Curious as to how you did it?
__________________
1983 V20 Cuddy |
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
After glueing in the wood and laying the mat, I cut the hole. I still had some grinding, sanding, and glassing to do after that, so that was when I hit the inside edges of the holecuts with resin. You could also cut the holes after glueing to the top, before laying the mat. I think either way would work fine. |
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
|
I did mine just like Awthacker did his....my first fiberglass job too....came out well. You can seal the edeges of the hole after you cut them. I woulld think you wouldnt want to mess with lining them up while you are trying to set the two pieces together....
The only other tip I got from here (I think it was ridgerunner) was to put plastic under the holes in your hatch skin because if you get some resin to squeeze out around the hole you could glue your new core to your work surface.
__________________
1986 V-20 1986 Yamaha 150 HP |
![]() |
|
|