Fuel tank removal

awthacker · #1 02-13-2012, 07:49 PM

Since the engine is down anyway, I decided to pull the gas tank for inspection and/or replacement. Removing the foam around the tank was the least enjoyable project I've gotten into, so far. I used a pressure washer, hammer, and flatbar to remove the foam. If the pressure washer is the easiest way, then I'll say "there ain't no easy way". It was a little laborsome lifting the cherry-picker in and out of the boat, but the lifting of the tank was quick and easy with this set-up. I posted the dimensions of my 82 cuddy's original tank on the other thread. It's 60"L x 26"W x 11H, 60 gallons.

The stringers look pretty good, so I don't think I'll cut the floors out for any reason. I need to put a new PVC pipe in place. Should the bulkhead be sealed around the PVC? It's definitely not... rotten water looks to have been sloshing around down in there for awhile. The bulkheads are a bit rotted at the bottom. Is this okay? Can I just dry them and patch them up, and should they be sealed, so that the PVC pipe is the only way water flows from front to back?

smokeonthewater · #2 02-13-2012, 09:06 PM

I would think that the only reason you'd even need the pvc is if you were gonna refoam.... My V doesn't have pvc but the resto was done by the P/O

awthacker · #3 02-13-2012, 09:50 PM

Whether or not to foam was my next question. Seems like moisture trapped in the foam is what did the tank in. Bad design? I was thinking of just enough foam to hold the tank firmly in place. Is there an alternative way to secure the tank? Is it okay for saltwater to wash around beneath the tank?

phatdaddy · #4 02-13-2012, 10:06 PM

I think the fuel compartment has to be sealed. the pvc is to allow water from the front to travel to the rear and be pumped out the bilge pump. if the fuel tank were to leak, the gas would flow to the bilge and go boom when the pump kicked on.

smokeonthewater · #5 02-14-2012, 12:34 AM

Fuel tank compartment doesn't have to be sealed... MANY boats have the fuel tank in the engine compartment and the bilge pump, float switch, and anything else in there should be ign. protected.

The foam is used to physically mount the tank.. you can tab it in with glass, or strap it down, or box it in with wood instead.

Foam is MUCH faster and easier in a production environment where the rest of the hull is getting foam in various places anyhow.

SkunkBoat · #6 02-14-2012, 09:20 PM

just my 2 cents...

I replaced the original tank on my 84. The original setup was foamed in. PVC passing water from bow to bilge, bypassing the tank compartment and tank hatch sealed with silicone. This setup lasted 25 years. So I stopped pondering what to do and just replaced exactly the same way.

If you are foaming in then definitely make sure no water can enter the tank compartment from bilge or hatch.

And I agree that the power washer method was "best" and that wasn't very easy either. Be careful to find all the little pieces of foam that are now everywhere in your bilge.